Day 1

Wednesday

July 18th

4:15 p.m.

Depart:

Home

Do:

Pick up Paul

6:40 p.m.

Depart:

Spokane

Do:

Southwest Flight 2083 (Debit)

7:40 p.m.

Arrive:

Portland

Lodge:

Quality Inn Portland Airport (OR021) $80.32/4

8247 N.E. Sandy Blvd. , Portland, OR, US, 97220

Phone: (503) 256-4111     Fax: (503) 254-1507
Wireless Internet, Whirlpool Bath, Continental Breakfast, Free Shuttle, Refrigerator

Day 2

Thursday

July 19th

6:15 p.m.

Do:

Shuttle to Airport

6:30 a.m.

Arrive:

Portland Airport

Do:

Check-In-
We can bring:
Purse, briefcase or laptop (put in carry-on in UK)
1 carry-on for 51 inches (11x14x26)  (UK 22 X 17.5 X 10)
2 checked baggage 50 lbs. each 62" total (LXHXW)

8:30 a.m.

Depart:

Portland

Do:

U. S. Airways Flight 265 A320
$5-Breakfast-Freshly baked croissant spread with cinnamon-raisin cream cheese and piled high with shaved turkey-ham.
$5-Lunch-Roasted chicken breast on a Ciabatta roll topped with crisp romaine lettuce, shaved Parmesan cheese and creamy Caesar dressing
$5-Served all day-An assortment of crackers served with strawberries, grapes and apple slices as well as cheddar, pepperjack, and Swiss cheese cubes.
$5-Served all day-SkyFun Box-An assortment of snacks including chips and salsa, a fruit bar, cheese and breadsticks and Nestle Buncha Crunch™ candy.
 

·  Coca-Cola Classic

·  Diet Coke

·  Sprite

·  Diet Sprite Zero

·  Minute Maid Apple Juice

·  Minute Maid Cranberry Apple Cocktail

·  Minute Maid Orange Juice

·  Dannon Water
Select US Airways' Airbus A319, A320, A321 and A330 aircraft are equipped with in-seat laptop power ports.

• A 15-volt power supply is delivered via an in-arm connector
• An adapter is necessary to take advantage of the in-seat power
• These adapters can be found at most major electronics stores and will vary based on the specific requirements of each laptop

4:30 p.m.

Arrive:

Philadelphia (5 hours)

Do:

Lunch

8:55 p.m.

Depart:

Philadelphia

Do:

Flight 730

Dinner

Day 3

Friday

July 20th

9:10 a.m.

Arrive:

London Gatwick Airport (7 hours and 15 minutes)

Do:

Cash Machine Travelex or ITT Moneycorp Bureau for Barclays Bank

Depart:

Gatwick

Do:

National Rail £28 ($255.41) BOA-Visa
Reservation # XLCTH8NT -
08/07 Train Ticket # 8745GG38 with BOA Visa
44 131 333 1922

Arrive:

Kings Cross Station, London
Left Luggage is a secure place where you can leave items of luggage for collection later. The left luggage is located on platform 8 and is open from 0700-2300.

Do:

Lunch

Kings Cross Station - From Harry Potter-Within King's Cross, a cast-iron "Platform 9¾" sign has been erected on a wall of the station's suburban building containing the real platforms 9 and 10. Part of a luggage trolley has also been installed below the sign; whilst the near end is visible, the rest of the trolley seems to have disappeared into the wall

British Library- Free (9:30-6) Sacred Exhibit: The world's greatest collection of Jewish, Christian and Muslim holy books.  Also see Lewis Carroll's Alice, the Gutenberg Bible, Leonardo da Vinci's notebook, Magna Carta and  Shakespeare's First Folio

3:00 p.m.

Depart:

Kings Cross Station

Do:

National Rail
Seats 63,64,65, 66

Dinner from 3-4:45 (1st class eat first)
Restaurant Menu:

7:10 p.m.

Arrive:

Edinburgh

Do:

Bus-100 (N22) departs from Waverley Bridge just off Princes St every 20 minutes.  Phone:  0131 555 6363

8:00 p.m.

Arrive:

Edinburgh Airport

Do:

Alamo Car Rental £468.27 Full Size Van with AC/Automatic, CD players, plug for computers
Reservation # 731611615
44 131 333 1922 phone
2.5 pounds per driver per day-does not need a credit card for this ($70 per person) 50 pound deposit for gas

Depart:

Edinburgh Airport

(Go left on Glasgow Rd/A8.  Enter the M9 going left/north.  Take exit 1A onto A8000.  At the roundabout continue left/north on A8000.  Go left/north on A90.   Continue north across the Forth Bridge.  Take the Admiralty Rd/A921 roundabout exit to the left/east.  The highway will become divided, then at the next roundabout go left/south on Chapel Place/B981.  Take going east/left on Boreland Rd.)  

Arrive:

Inverkeithing

Do:

Check in at Borland Lodge

(Continue on Boreland back to Chapel Pl.  Turn right/north on Chapel.  At the roundabout go left on A921/Admiralty Rd.  Go left on A90 at the next roundabout across the bridge.  Continue on A90 south past A8000 and A902 south.  It will be called Queensferry Rd and Hillhouse Rd.  Enter A902Telford Rd.  Continue through Crewe toll on Ferry Rd./A902.  When it ends at Great Junction S  Go left/north on N. Junction St.  At the next roundabout continue on Ocean Dr.  Go through the next roundabout looking for Ocean Terminal.)

12:00 a.m.

Waterstone's Harry Potter Book Party-The latest Harry Potter film, Order of the Phoenix, will be showing upstairs in Vue Cinema (www.myvue.com), while we will have games, activities and prizes. There will also be an appearance of "He Who Shall Not Be Named" - are you brave enough?

Boreland Lodge Hotel-
31/33 Boreland Road,
Inverkeithing,
Fife, KY11 1DA
£84 a night, 1 double, 2 single beds, ensuite-shower, hair dryer, TV, coffee/tea maker, traditional Scottish breakfast. 15 car parking

Day 4

July 21st

9:00 a.m.

Depart:

Inverkeithing

(Go west on Borland Rd.  Turn right/north on Chapel Pl.  Go left on Admiral Rd/A921.  Go left/south on M90/A90.  It will become Queensferry Rd, then Hillhouse Rd.  The A90 will split to the right as Queensferry Rd again.  When it becomes Queensferry St.  Turn left/east on Rutland Pl, then right/south on Lothian Rd/A700.  Turn left at Bread St.  At the junction it will go left on W Port, which will become Grassmarket.  At the roundabout take the 2nd left on Upper Bow.  Go left at Upper Bow.  At the small roundabout take the 1st left on Johnson Terrace.  Look for parking.  If not, when Johnson Terrace ends, turn left on Castle Terrace and an immediate right to the parking lot.    Parking lot is on the right side.  Walk down Castle Terrace going east, then onto Johnson Terrace.  Look for a left to the castle.)     

Arrive:

Edinburgh

14

Royal Mile-Walk-from Edinburgh Castle to the Palace

See:

A-Edinburgh Castle- BHP £10.30  9:30-6:00 Collection of buildings dating from the 12th to the 20th century.

B-Castle Esplanade
A big parking lot leading up to the castle was created as a military parade ground in 1816.  The Military Tattoo in August takes place here.  At the bottom and to the left a plaque above the tine witch’s fountain memorializes 300 women who were accused of witchcraft and burned here.  Scotland burned more witches per capita than any other country-17,000 between 1479 and 1722.  The plaque shows two witches:  one good and one bad.  

C-Camera Obscura £7.50 (9:30-7:30) Built in 1953, this observatory topped with a mirror reflected images onto a disc before the wide eyes of people who had never seen a photograph or captured image.  You can climb 100 steps for an entertaining 15 minute demonstration.  At the top enjoy the best view anywhere of the Royal Mile.  Then work your way down through three floors of illusions, holograms, and early photos.    

D-Gladstone's Land- BHP or £5-
This 1617 merchant’s house, recently restored, provides a window on life in a typical Old Town house before overcrowding drove the rich to the Georgian New Town.  The house still has the original arcade booths on the street front and a painted ceiling with fine Scandinavian floral designs.  It is extravagantly finished, but also contains items from the less affluent side of the old city.  For a good Royal Mile photo lean out the upper floor window or simply climb the curved stairway outside the museum to the left of the entrance.  Notice the snoozing pig outside the front door.  Just like every house has a vacuum cleaner today, in the good old days a snorting rubbish collector was a standard feature of any well-equipped house.    

E-Lady Stair’s House-Writer’s Museum  Free (10-5)
This was built in 1622 for a William Grey of Pittendrum who had the words "Feare The Lord and Depart From Evil" carved above the door along with his initials and those of his wife, Geida Smith (WG &GS). William Grey installed an early form of burglar defense in his house - the height of each of the main steps is uneven, making it difficult to run up and down them!  The building was later bought by Lady Stair in 1719.  The exterior of the building was much modified in the 19th century with a balconied tower and stonework. It now belongs to the City of Edinburgh and has been turned into a Writers' Museum dedicated to three of Scotland's most famous writers - Robert Burns (who stayed in a house opposite during his first visit to Edinburgh in 1786), Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson. It is crammed with pictures, etchings, busts and memorabilia of the three writers, including bibles, pipes and walking sticks. You are not allowed to take photographs inside the Museum.

F-Deacon Brodie’s Pub
It is named after Deacon William Brodie, the an who inspired Robert Louis Stevenson's novel The Strange Case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde. Deacon Brodie (1741-88) was a respected cabinet-maker and a member of the Town Council, and Deacon (head) of the Incorporation of Wrights and Masons. But Brodie lived a double life, developing an expensive lifestyle including mistresses and gambling that he could only support through a secret life of crime. As a respected craftsman, part of Brodie's day job involved manufacturing and repairing locks. It became his practice to take copies of all the keys involved so that he could return some time later with accomplices as part of his night job
Brodie's downfall followed an armed raid on His Majesty's Excise Office on Edinburgh's Canongate. One of the gang was caught red handed and although Brodie escaped to the Netherlands he was arrested in Amsterdam and returned to Scotland for trial. Brodie was found guilty after a search of his home revealed his stock of duplicate keys and he was sentenced to hang at Edinburgh's Tolbooth on 1 October 1788. Brodie bribed the hangman to ignore a steel collar Brodie was wearing, designed to keep him alive for long enough to be revived after the hanging. It failed, however, and Brodie's double life was over.  Deacon Brodie's Tavern has two floors, the bar downstairs and the restaurant upstairs.  Look at the ceiling inside.  Read the “Doctor Jekyll and Mister Hyde” story of this pub’s notorious namesake on the wall facing Bank Street.  Then, to see his spooky split personality, check out both sides of the hanging signposts. 

G-Heart of Midlothian
Near the street in front of the St. Giles Cathedral a heart-shaped outline in the brickwork marks the spot where the entrance to the Tolbooth used to be located. The Tolbooth was originally set up in 1561, as the name implies, to collect tolls but also became used as a prison after 1640. There was also a scaffold for hanging criminals (and others) and the heads of the more famous victims would be displayed on spikes in the face of the building. The Tolbooth was demolished in 1817. Traditionally, locals stand on the rim of the heart and spit on it.  Hitting the middle brings good luck.  Go ahead…do as the locals do.

H-St. Giles Cathedral-Donation (9-7)
The Gothic exterior is dominated by a 15^th century tower.  Inside the impressive Thistle Chapel can be seen. 
1) Stepping inside, find John Knox’s statue.  Look into his eyes for 10 seconds from 10” away, and think of the Reformation struggles of the 16^th century.  John Knox directed the Scottish Reformation with its emphasis on individual worship freed from the authority of bishops.  He was the founder of the Scottish Presbyterianism first preached here in 1559.  He insisted every person should be able to read the word of God and preached Calvinism.
2) The 4 massive pillars date from 1120.  The English burnt it in 1385 and it was rebuilt.  The crown spire was completed in 1495.  
3) The 1992 Austrian built organ has a glass panel in back to see the mechanism. 
4) The modern window filling the west wall celebrates Scotland’s favorite poet, Robert Burns.  It was made in 1985 by the Icelandic artist, Leifur Breidfjord.  The green of the lower level symbolizes the natural world, God’s creation.  The middle zone shows the brotherhood of man.  The top is a rosy red sunburst of creativity, reminding Scots of Burns’ famous line, “My love is like a red, red rose”
5) To the right of the Burns window is a find Pre-Raphaelite window.  It is a memorial to an important patron, John Marshall. 
6) From (5) stretches a great swath of war memorials.    
7) The neogothic Chapel of the Knights of the Thistle, in the far right corner, was built in 1911 of Scottish materials and labor.  It is the private chapel of this chivalric order, who meets once a year for inauguration.  Leading citizens of Scotland are bestowed this membership.  The queen presides over this ritual from her fancy stall, marked by the Scottish coat of arms.  Find the tooting angel above the door to the right.
8) John Knox is buried out back under the parking lot in spot 23. 

I-Old Parliament House- (9-5 M-F)
Near parking spot 15 step inside this Italianate  building which was constructed in the 1630’s.  This hall housed the Scottish Parliament until the Act of Union in 1707, explained in the history exhibition under the big stained-glass depiction of the initiation of the first Scottish High Court in 1532.  It has been home to the Court of Session and the Supreme Court since then with wigged and robed lawyers hard at work in the old library (peek through the door) or pacing the hall deep in discussion.  The friendly doorman is helpful.  The grand hall, with its fine 1639 hammer-beam ceiling and stained glass, commemorates the inauguration of the Court of Session by James V in 1952.   

J- Mercat Cross
This chunky pedestal, on the downhill side of St. Giles, holds a slender column topped with a white unicorn.  Royal proclamations have been read here since the 14^th century.  The tradition survives.  In 1952, three days (traditionally the time it took for a horse to speed here from London) after the actual event, a town crier heralded the news that England had a new queen.  Today, it is the meeting point of various walking tours-both historic and ghostly.  

K-Police Information Center free (9-9:30)
A few doors downhill this center provides a pleasant police presence and a little local law and order history to boot.  Pick up the “For the Record”, the police brag mag.  Ask the officer on duty about the grave-robber, Williams Burke’s skin and creative poetic justice, Edinburgh style. 

L-Cockburn Street
This street was cut through High Street’s dense wall of medieval skyscrapers in the 1860’s to give easy access to the Georgian New Town and the train station.  Notice how the sliced buildings were thoughtfully capped with facades in a faux-16^th century Scottish baronial style.  In the Middle Ages only tiny lanes, like the Fleshmarket Lane just uphill from Cockburn, interrupted the long lines of Royal Mile buildings.  

M-Tron Kirk (10:00-5:00)
This fine old building, across from Cockburn Street used as a sales base for a local walking tour company, sits over an old excavation site.  It houses a free Old Town history display.  Just above Tron Kirk is a Starbucks with fine street side tables and a spacious upstairs lounge. 

See:

South Bridge Vaults

N-Museum of Childhood Free (10-5:00)
This five story playground of historical toys and games is rich in nostalgia and history.  Just downhill is a fragrant fudge shop offering delicious free samples.  It was founded in 1955 by a city councilor, Patrick Murray, who claimed to enjoy eating children for breakfast.  The collection includes medicines, school books and prams as well as galleries full of old-fashioned toys.  With its nickelodeon, antique slot machines and the general enthusiasm of visitors, this has been called the world’s noisiest museum. 

O-John Knox House £3 (10-6)
43 High Street
Intriguing for Reformation buffs, this fine 16^th century house offers a well-explained look at the life of the great reformer.  While some contend Knox never actually lived here, preservationists called it “his house” to save it from the wrecking ball in 1850.  The museum has been undergoing periodic renovation and may be closed.    

P-The World’s End
For centuries, a wall halfway down the Royal Mile marked the end of Edinburgh and the beginning of Canongate, a community associated with Holyrood Abbey.  Today, where the Mile hits St. Mary’s and Jeffrey streets, High Street becomes Canongate.  Just below the John Knox House (at #43) you will notice the hanging sign showing the old gate.  At the intersection find the brass bricks that trace the gate (demolished in 1764).  Look  down St. Mary’s Street to see a surviving bit of that old wall.       

Q-People’s Story Free (10-5:00)
This interesting exhibition traces the conditions of the working class through the 18^th to the 20^th century.  Curiously, while this museum is dedicated to the proletariat, immediately around the back (embedded in the wall of the museum) is the tomb of Adam Smith-the author of Wealth of Nations and the father of modern free-market capitalism (1723-1790).

R-Museum of Edinburgh Free (10-5)
Another old house full of old stuff, this one is worth a look for its early Edinburgh history and handy ground-floor WC.  Don’t miss the original copy of the National Covenant, written in 1638 on an animal skin, There are sketches of pre-Georgian Edinburgh which show a lake, later filled in to become Princes Street Gardens when the New Town was built.  There are also early golf balls.  

S-White Horse Close
At the bottom of Canongate on the left and a block before the Palace of Holyroodhouse, step into this 17^th century courtyard.  It was from here that the Edinburgh stagecoach left for London.  Eight days later the horse-drawn carriage pulled into its destination:  Scotland Yard.  

T-Scottish Parliament Building Free (10-4)
Across the street, Scotland’s Parliament originated here in 1293, was dissolved by England in 1707 and returned in 2000.  The new building opened in 2004.  The Catalan architect, Enric Miralles, mixed wild angles, lots of light, bold windows and local stone into a startling complex that would, as he envisioned, “arise from the sloping base of Arthur’s Seat and arrive into the city almost surging out of the rock.”   To see, drop in, pass through security and find the visitor’s desk.   

U-Queen’s Gallery £5 or £12.50 combo with the Palace of Holyroodhouse (9:30-6)
The museum features rotating exhibits of drawings from the royal collection.  For more than five centuries the royal family has amassed a wealth of art treasures.  While the queen keeps most in her many private palaces, she shares an impressive load of it here.  Exhibits change every six months.  Though it is just two rooms, it can be exquisite and comes with a well-done audioguide. 

V-Palace of Holyroodhouse BHP £8.80 9:30-6:00
Built in 1529 to accommodate James V and his French wife, Mary of Guise.  Mary Queen of Scots saw the murder of her trusted Italian secretary, David Rizzio, by her jealous husband, Lord Darnley, from the tower in 1566.  She had married him a year earlier here in the chapel.  Bonnie Prince Charlie held court here in 1745 in the Jacobite uprising.  The present queen now spends a week here each year.  The Royal Apartments are used for investitures and banquets when the Queen visits.  Includes a one-hour audio guide.  You’ll learn which of the kings featured in the 110 portraits lining the Great Gallery were real or fictional, what touches were added to the bedchambers to flatter King Charles II, and why the exiled Comte d’Artois took refuge in the palace.  There is also a re-enactment of the murder of Mary Queen of Scots secretary. 
After exiting, you’re free to stroll through the ruined abbey and the queen’s gardens.  Note that the wonderful trip up Arthur’s Seat starts just across the street from the gardens.

W-Museum of Scotland – Free (10-5)
From the palace walk back down Holyrood Rd going west, which is one block south of the Royal Mile.  Turn left/south on South Bridge and right/west on Chambers.
Start in the basement and work your way through the story; prehistoric, Roman, Viking, the “birth of Scotland,” Edinburgh’s witch burning craze, clan massacres, all the way to life in the 20^th century.  Free audio guides offer a pleasant description of various rooms and exhibits and even provide music for your wanderings. The Kingdom of the Scots exhibit shows evidence of a vibrant early nation with Mary Queen of Scots.  The industry exhibit explains how the Scots were tamed and united with England.  Also the first golf ball is displayed.  Tours 10:30, 12:30 and 2:30

X-Royal Museum of Scotland - Free (10-5)
Built in 1866, this museum holds Scotland’s international collections.  Exhibits includes examples from the applied arts and sciences.  European art from the 1200 to 1800 is on the first floor while the second floor exhibits rare scientific instruments.  Geological specimens and Eastern decorative arts are on the top floor.

Y-Greyfriars Bobby
On an old drinking fountain near the gateway to Greyfriars Church and across the street from the Museum of Scotland (George IV St), stands the statue of a little Skye terrier.   This commemorates the dog, who for 14 years guarded the grave of his master, John Gray, who died in 1858.  The people of Edinburgh fed him until his death in 1872.  He was also granted citizenship to prevent him being destroyed as a stray.  Every business nearby is named for the pooch that put the fidelity into Fido. 

Z-Arthur’s Seat Hike
From the parking lot below the Palace of Holyroodhouse, there are two trailheads.  Take the wide path on the left (easier grade through the abbey ruins and “Hunter’s Bog.”) Hike up to the top of the 822 foot remains of an extinct volcano.  Its name stems from a little-known legend that King Arthur watched his army's defeat of the Picts from there.

Look at shops

(Pick up car.  Go west on Castle Terrace.  Turn right/north on Lothian Rd.  Turn right/west on Princes St, then left/north on Charlotte Sq.  Turn right/east on George St.  Turn left on St. Andrew Sq to the bank.)

Barclays Bank
1 St. Andrew Square
Edinburgh

(Continue back around the square taking the left to Queen St.  Turn right/east on  York Pl.  Turn right/south on Leith St.  Look for Greenside on the left.

See:

Vue Edinburgh Omni Centre-Harry Potter £6.50

OR

(After bank go south to Princes St.  Go left/west.  Turn right/northwest on Queensferry St.  It will become A90 going west.  It will be Hillhouse and Queensferry again.  It will cross the Firth of Forth.  At the 2nd roundabout take a left on Admiralty Rd.  At the next roundabout go left/south on Chapel Rd.  Turn left on Borland Rd.)

Arrive:

Inverkeithing

14

Lodge:

Boreland Lodge Hotel

(28)

Day 5

Sunday

July 22nd

Depart: 

Inverkeithing

(Go back /right/north on Chapel Pl.  At the roundabout take the first left/west on Admiralty Rd/A921.   Enter M90 from the 3rd left on the roundabout.  Take exit 2A left onto A92 going east.  In Glenrothes at the roundabout take the 3rd exit onto A911 going east.   At Windygates roundabout take the 2nd left onto A915.  Take this all the way to St. Andrews.   Turn right/east on South St.  Drop us off at the end of it.) 

Arrive:

St. Andrews

38

Do:

Drop off Jen and Sherry

See:

St. Andrews Cathedral  BHP £4.00 (9:30-5:30)
Work began on what was to become the largest cathedral ever to be built in Scotland. The work took nearly 150 years to complete. It was eventually consecrated on 5 July 1318 in the presence of Robert the Bruce.  The cathedral was not blessed by favourable elements or good luck, either during its construction or afterwards. Shortly after the nave was completed, the west end of the cathedral was blown down in a gale in 1270. This was rebuilt in a slightly different position, where parts of it remain today. Then the English stripped the lead from the part-built roofs to make shot during the Wars of Independence. In 1378 the cathedral was badly damaged by fire and had to be extensively rebuilt. And in 1409 it was the turn of the end of the south transept to collapse under the force of a winter storm.  But it was a wind of another kind that brought about the sudden end of the cathedral: the wind of change wrought by the Reformation. On 11 June 1559 John Knox preached a sermon in St Andrews parish church that so aroused the congregation they immediately went to the cathedral and destroyed the splendid fittings and furnishings associated by the reformers with "popery" .  The end followed quickly. The Church of St Mary on the Rock was probably completely destroyed shortly after it was first attacked. The cathedral and its friary effectively ceased to function on 14 June 1559 when further attacks took place, and within a week all the friars has been "violently expelled" from St Andrews.

St. Andrews Castle BHP £5.00 (9:30-5:30)
St Andrews has been the ecclesiastical centre for Scotland ever since a relic of St Andrew, brother of St Peter, found its way to the Pictish settlement of Kinrymont (the previous name for the hamlet which existed here, possibly as far back as the 4th century. The burgh received its first charter from King David I in 1140. There has been a castle since at least the time of Bishop Roger in the latter half of the 12th century. The castle changed hands several times during the Wars of Independence as Robert the Bruce fought to free Scotland from King Edward I of England. During that time much of the original castle was destroyed and it is a building which was started at the end of the 14th century which we see today.  The young King James I received part of his education at St Andrews Castle from Bishop Henry Wardlaw who founded St Andrews University. His successor, Bishop James Kennedy demonstrated to King James II that a sheaf arrows could not be broken but each arrow could be broken singly. In 1521, the Archbishop of Glasgow, James Beaton, succeeded at St Andrews, at a time when Protestant ideas were taking hold in Scotland. In 1537 his son, David Beaton became Archbishop of St Andrews and Cardinal of the Church. In 1546 Beaton burnt at the stake the Protestant preacher George Wishart in front of the castle walls but a few months later a group of Protestant lairds murdered the Cardinal. The castle was later besieged - at one stage tunnels were built to go under the castle walls and visitors who are brave enough can now enter this unusual "tourist attraction". The dungeons are also popular!   Today, a siege mine and counter-mine can be explored, and the ‘bottle dungeon’ viewed. Visitor centre with exhibition. The shop features a range of local products made in Fife.

Fisher & Donaldon
13 Church St
 A prestigious baker, chocolaterie, confiserie, boulangerie and patisserie.

B Jannettas
31 South Street
Now in the fourth generation, St Andrews' original ice cream shop makes award-winning ice cream on the premises. Our Italian style cafe is next door to the ice cream parlour.

Burns Sweet Shop
96 Market Street
Traditional Scottish sweetie shop stacked from floor to ceiling with the finest quality confectionery from all over the world.

Depart:

St. Andrews (Paul and Ray)

(The road will go left/north, then left/west on North St/A91.  Take this northwest out of town.  After crossing the Eden River at the roundabout take the 2nd left onto A919/Main St.  go north.  At Leuchars it will be called Station Rd and eventually go left on Main St.  At the next junction it will change to A914.  At the large roundabout turn left on the 3rd exit onto A92 going north.  there will be one more large roundabout, but stay on A92 to cross the Firth of Tay.  Follow the signs to the "Open" OR Continue on A92/Arbroath Rd.  It will become Baldovie Rd.  Watch for signs where to turn in Carnoustie.) 

Arrive:

Carnoustie

26

Do:

British Open Golf Tournament (Ray and Paul)

Option:

St. Andrews Golf Course Tour £2.50 Suitable for golfers and non-golfer alike, tours take place every hour between 11am and 4pm, starting and ending at the St Andrews Links Golf Shop behind the 18th green of the Old Course. Walks are scheduled for Saturdays and Sundays in June and every day in July and August. The tour takes approximately 40 minutes. Tickets cost £2.50 per person and should be purchased from the guide on the day.   All tickets include a complimentary Old Course score card and a voucher giving promotional price entry to the British Golf Museum

Depart:

Carnoustie

(Go back to A92/Arbroath Rd.  Go west.  Turn left with it as it goes into Dundee as Greendykes Rd, then Broughty Ferry Rd, East Dock St and Marketgait as it turns south across the Firth of Tay.  At the 2nd roundabout take the 1st left on A914.  Do not go right, but take A919 into Leuchars.  It will become Main St, then go right on Station Rd.  At the roundabout go left on A91 into St. Andrews.  It will become Pilmour Links, then North St.  Turn right on City Road/A915.  Park somewhere.  Walk east down Market St to Church St, then right to South St.  Turn right again.)    

Arrive:

St. Andrews

26

(From North or South St turn left/south on A915/City Rd.  It will become Largo Rd before leaving town.  At Windygates roundabout take the 2nd left onto A911/Durie Bank Rd.  At Glenrothes take a left on A92.  Enter M90.  Take exit 1 roundabout onto A921/Admiralty Rd going left/east.   At the next roundabout take the 2nd left onto Chapel Pl.  Turn left/east on Boreland.) 

Arrive:

Inverkeithing

38

Lodge:

Boreland Lodge Hotel

(128)

Monday

July 23rd

7:30 a.m.

Depart:

Inverkeithing

(Go back to Chapel Place and turn right/north.  At the roundabout go left/west on Admiralty Rd/A921.  Go left/south on A90 into Edinburgh.  Continue on A90 through the north side of Edinburgh.  It will become Queensferry Rd., Hillhouse Rd., Telford Rd., and Ferry Rd.  Turn left/north on Hwy A901/N Junction St.  Turn right on A199/Commercial St.  It will become Bernard, Baltic, Salamander, Seafield, Sir Harry Lauder, and at Milton Link become A1.)

10:00 a.m.

Arrive:

Alnwick

103

(Turn right/west on Alnmouth Rd.  It will become Bondgate Without, then Bondgate Within.  Look for Barclays cash machine.)

Alnwick Barclays-
20 Bondgate Within Street
Par

(Continue on Bondgate.  Turn right on Greenwell Rd. to park.  Look at map.)

See:

Alnwick Castle BHP- £8.50- (10-6) is the second largest inhabited castle in England, the first being Windsor Castle, and has been the home of the Percys, Earls and Dukes of Northumberland since 1309. The earliest mention of Alnwick Castle in the history books appears soon after 1096 when Yves de Vescy became baron of Alnwick and erected the earliest parts of the Castle. State Rooms 11-5.  (Used for Harry Potter I & II for the flying scenes & quiditch)

(Follow signs for Alnwick Town Centre. There are various Car Parks close to the Castle at Greenwell Lane and Bailiffgate. The Main Entrance is at Castle Square opposite Baliffgate and there is also an Admissions Kiosk at Greenwell Lane.
Or you can follow signs for Alnwick Castle and Garden park at Denwick Lane in areas highlighted as the Alnwick Garden Car Park.
Entrance to the Castle is via the Garden. A short walk takes you past the Garden Pavillion and to an Admissions Kiosk where you can purchase your Castle tickets.)

11:45 a.m.

Battleaxes to Broomstix Tours Free
Join us on a tour of the Castle Grounds. Find out about our famous hero Harry Hotspur and our present fame as a great film location. The Castle features in blockbusters such as Elizabeth, Robin Hood Prince of Thieves and Harry Potter and the Philisopher's Stone to name just a few.  Tour Times:  11:45 and again at 14:00
Weather Permitting

1:30 p.m.

Depart:

Alnwick

(Go back to Bondgate Without and turn left/east.  At the roundabout take the 2nd exit onto Alnmouth Rd/A1068.  At the roundabout go right on S Rd/A1068 into the A1 going south.  In East Denton at the roundabouts outside Newcastle go left/west on the 3rd exit onto A69. )

2:00 p.m.

Arrive:

Newcastle Upon-Tyne

34

(Continue on A69.  At Heddon-on-the Wall go left.  It will become Hexham Rd.  Continue west.  At Towne Gate Rd go right/north, then left/west onto Military Rd/B6318.   It will cross over A69 and go left/west.  Go through the A68 roundabout.   It will become Brunton Bank.  After crossing the river at the roundabout take the first left.  It follows Hadrian's Wall.) 

2:30 p.m.

Arrive:

Chollerford

22

See:

Hadrians's Wall- Roman Emperor Hadrian had the wall built in AD122.  It is 75 miles long.

(1/4 mile west)

Chesters Roman Fort and Museum £3.80 or BHP- Best visible remains of a Roman Cavalry Fort.  Originally built astride Hadrian's Wall to defend a bridge carrying the wall across the river north Tyne.  With a military bath house surviving as one of the best preserved buildings along the line of Hadrian's Wall.  A museum, which houses the Clayton collection along with an extensive array of finds originating from five Roman forts. 

(Go west on B6318 for 4 miles)

See:

Carrawburgh (Brocolitia)-A fascinating temple near Carrawburgh fort to the god beloved by Roman soldiers, with facsimiles of altars found during excavation. Sited like many Mithraic temples near a military base, it was founded in the 3rd century, and eventually desecrated, probably by Christians. Nearby was the still more popular well shrine of the water-nymph Coventina.

Sewingshields Milecastle-A 2 mile stretch of wall with magnificent views.  A length of Wall with milecastle remains, impressively sited along the Whin Sill, commanding fine views of many prehistoric and later earthworks to the north.

13.5

(3 miles northeast of Bardon Mill on B6318)

Housesteads Roman Fort and Museum-£4.10 or BHP (10-6)Most complete Roman Fort in Britian.  Spectacular views.  Entry is through a small museum, displaying a complete model of how Housesteads once appeared. Excavations at the fort have revealed four double-portal gateways, the turreted curtain wall, three visible barrack blocks and of course the famous and well-preserved latrines. At the centre are the most important buildings: the commandant’s house, headquarters building and hospital.  Good stretches of Hadrian's Wall.  1/2 mile walk to fort.  Fee parking and restroom

1.25

(4 1/2 miles north of Bardon Mill on B6318)

Once Brewed Northumberland National Centre-(9:30-5) free orientation and information about this world heritage site.

1.5

(2 miles west of Gilsland)

Birdoswald Roman Fort and Visitor Centre-£0 or BHP (10-5:30) With probably the bestpreserved defences of any Wall fort, this was an important base for some 1,000 Roman soldiers, succeeding an earlier fort of turf and timber. The section of Wall to the east, also of stone replacing turf, is the longest continuous stretch visible today.

Archaeological discoveries over the past 150 years have revealed a great deal about Roman military life at Birdoswald. Three of the four main gateways of the fort have been unearthed, as have the outside walls, two granary buildings, workshops and a unique drill hall.

People continued to live at Birdoswald after the Roman withdrawal. In the 5th century a large timber hall was built over the collapsed Roman granaries, perhaps for a local British chieftain. Later, a medieval tower house was raised here, replaced in the 16th century by a fortified ‘bastle’ farmhouse designed to protect its inhabitants from the notorious ‘Border Reivers’. Later still in more peaceful times, a farmhouse stood there.

The Birdoswald Visitor Centre provides a good introduction to Hadrian’s Wall, and tells the intriguing story of Birdoswald and the people who have lived there over the past 2,000 years. There is a cosy tearoom at the site if you need refreshments, and a wellstocked shop for souvenirs.

(Just before  Greenhead B6318 will be called Glenwhelt Bank. )

7:00 p.m.

Arrive:

Greenhead

1.25

(Just past the railroad tracks turn left to enter A69 going west.  After passing Tarn Rd at the next roundabout continue on the 1st left on A69.  Go through Corby Hill.  At the junction with 43/M6 continue through on Warwick Rd/A69.  It is about a mile and a half.  You will cross a river and about 7 roads.)

7:30 p.m.

Arrive:

Carlisle

35

Courtfield Guest House £75.00
169 Warwick Rd.
Carlisle  CA1 1LP
01228 522767
2 Singles and 1 double, ensuite, tea/coffeemaker, hair dryer, alarm clock, parking, TV in lounge

(212)

Day 7

Tuesday

July 24th

8:00 a.m.

Depart:

Carlisle

(Go east on Warwick back to the roundabout taking the 3rd left on to the M6/43 going south.  At Penrith exit 40 roundabout take the 2nd left/east on A66.  At the Scotch Corner  Kemplay Bank roundabout.  When it ends take the 4th exit on the roundabout onto A1 going south.  It will become Leeming Ln, then enter A1(M)/48 continuing south.  Take the 1st left on the A59/New Rd roundabout going east.   It will become York Rd.  Stay on A59 going into York.  Stay on the A59 as it become Boroughbridge Rd, Poppletone Rd, and Holgate Rd.  It will end at Blossom St/A1036.  Go left/northeast.  Turn left on Nunnery Ln.  It will turn into Queen, Station Rd, then turn left on Lendal/Museum St  At St Leonard's Pl.  turn right on  High Petergate. Look for parking.) 

Arrive:

York

120

Do:

York Walking Tour

A-Museum Gardens-These gardens are a peaceful spot popular with local people and visitors alike, and contain several interesting features.  Following the path in front of the Yorkshire Museum you catch your first glimpse of the abbey ruins as the western corner of the precinct wall comes into view. Saint Mary's Abbey was the first monastic house to be established in Yorkshire after the Norman Conquest. Founded in about 1080AD by Stephen Of Lastingham, it was one of the largest and wealthiest Benedictine Abbeys in the country. The abbey was demolished by King Henry VIII in 1540 and has stood as a ruin ever since. Most of this thirteenth century wall is still standing, its empty window arches, like a row of canine teeth, framing a view of the tree-tops beyond.   Scattered on the grass in front of the precinct wall are remnants of the abbey's main buildings. Also notice, near the entrance to the abbey, the remains of St Leonards Hospital, whose riverside landing followed the narrow lane to your left.

Roman Walls Free (8-9) Head across from the Minster to the Roman Column.  Turn around and study the Minster.  Hike past the west/left portal of the Minster and down the street to the Bootham Bar.  This is one of four gates on York's medieval walls (free).  Norman kings built the walls to assert control over Henry VIII.  Now climb up on The Wall and hike along the top to the corner.  Notice the pivots in the crenellations (square notches at the top of a medieval wall), which once held wooden hatches that provided cover for archers.  At the corner, you can see the moat outside and a fine view of the Minster, with its truncated main tower and the pointy rooftop of its chapter house.  Continue on to the next gate, Monk Bar.  Keep an eye on the 12th century guards, with their stones raised and primed to protect the town.  Descend the wall at Monk Bar and step past the portcullis and outside the city's protective wall.  Lean against the last bollard and gaze up at the tower, imagining 10 archers behind the arrow slits.  

B-Praetorian Gate-Leaving the gardens, we stroll southeast/up Lendal towards the grand and imposing Mansion House, designed by Richard Boyle and completed in 1726. Stand here with your back to the wall and look to your left at the large stone building inscribed 'Yorkshire Insurance Co.' Here stood the Praetorian Gate.  The Praetorian Gate was the main entrance to the City Of York (or Eboracum as it was then known) during Roman Times. The original construction date is uncertain but the gate was probably rebuilt around 300AD.   It guarded the entrance to the Praetorium where Julius Agricola and Petillius Cerealis directed the Roman legions and where Constantine was acclaimed Emperor on the death, in York, of his father Constantius.  The gate had two arches, each spanning a road approximately 20 feet wide and stood partly across the square and partly across the large building inscribed 'Yorkshire Insurance Co.'

(A little forward, to the left hand side of St Helen's Square is the parish church, particularly famous for its magnificent fifteenth century stained glass window. )

C-St. Martins with St. Helen- Stepping into the Church of St Martin with St Helen from the busy street outside you immediately find yourself in an oasis of peace and quiet.
This is York's civic church and in medieval times was the church of the glassmakers guild, whose arms appear in one window. The fifteenth century stained glass of the west window, depicting St Helen, The Virgin Mary as Queen of Heaven, St William of York and Edward The Confessor is some of the finest
in the country and casts a dappled, unpredictable light on the finely carved stone interior. In the east end of the south aisle is a memorial commemorating two sisters who lived through the reigns of seven sovereigns.

(Turn left to Blake St.  Turn left/northwest.  At Duncombe look to the right for a famous and wonderful view of York Minster.   Cross the road carefully at the traffic lights and enter St Leonards Place.  Nearly 300 feet of medieval wall between Bootham Bar and the edge of the Museum Gardens were demolished during the construction of this wide and attractive road by the City Corporation in 1839.   About halfway up St Leonard's Place is The Theatre Royal, York.) 

D-The Theatre Royal, York- Erected in 1750 and rebuilt in 1765 with a facade added during the 19th century, the Theatre Royal has a long history of modifications and improvements culminating in the addition of an annex in 1967.
 As you pass, notice the carved heads of Hamlet, Elizabeth I, Lady Macbeth, Falstaff and Titania beneath William Shakespeare.

(Just a little further down the street and we find ourselves in Exhibition Square with King's Manor.) 

E-King's Manor- Turning left from Exhibition Square you pass the gate to Kings Manor. Built around 1280 as a residence for the Abbot Of St Mary's Abbey this fine building was enlarged by Abbot Sever in 1460.
After the Reformation and the failure of the Pilgrimage Of Grace in 1536 it received its present name and became the headquarters of the Council Of The North. Serving in this capacity for nearly 100 years until the Civil War.
Among its many notable guests were Henry VIII, Queen Catherine Howard, Charles I, Charles II and James I.
Kings Manor now belongs to the University Of York and is open to the public every week day from 10.00am - 5.00pm. It is a fascinating building to explore, and still retains several, original Tudor features.

(Opposite King’s Manor)

F-The City Art Gallery- Free (10-5)  Designed by Edward Taylor and built in 1879, the City Art Gallery houses work spanning over six hundred years of European history from early Italian gold-ground panels to 20th century abstract paintings. Among the collection are outstanding pieces by Bellotto, Reynolds, Lowry Turner, Lely and Pissaro.
Reaching the end of St Leonards Street you stand on some of York's most historic ground.  Straight ahead is Gillygate. This is the main road out of the city to the north and is on the line of a Roman road which led through the Porta Principalis or North Western Gate of the Roman fortress. The remains of this fortress lie directly below your feet beneath the tarmac.      

G-Bootham Bar-Here we have a clear view of Bootham Bar, probably the most attractive of the four bars (or gates) which lead into the city.  This was the main entrance to the city from the north and the Forest of Galtres. Erected on Roman foundations in the twelfth century and enlarged in the thirteenth century Bootham Bar is probably the most attractive of York's bars (or gates). In 1501 it was ordered that a large door-knocker be attached to the oak doors of the bar and that 'Scottish persons who were wishful to enter York should knock first.' Armed guards were stationed at Bootham Bar to conduct travelers through the forest, protecting them from wolves and robbers.  Through a narrow archway on the right hand side of the bar is a flight of steep steps. We climb these and find ourselves on the ramparts of the ancient city walls.  Walking along the wall, following the line of Gillygate, we turn sharply right and are presented with a superb view of Dean's Park and the Treasurer's House (1700’s).

(Continuing along the city walls we come to Monk Bar and descend the steps.)

H-Monk Bar-Monk Bar- is the largest and strongest of the gateways to the city and contains vaulted chambers, formerly the Freeman's Prison.
Look around on Goodramgate for Monk Bar Chocolatiers.
A few yards ahead we take a right turn into Ogleforth. About halfway up the street you will notice a row of 11 almshouses to your right behind heavy iron gates.

(Walking on, we turn left along Chapter House Street and come to the magnificent east end of York Minster.)

I-York Minster Abbey (9:30-5)
Entry to the Undercroft, Treasury & Crypt (includes free audio tour) £4.00
Entry to the Tower £4.00 
Entry to the Minster and Tower £7.50
Do Everything Ticket £9.00
  You have arrived just in time for a short tour of the Minster.
Tower:  Climbing the 275 steps to the top of the central tower is an exhilarating experience. You will pass the Minster's medieval pinnacles and gargoyles and see over its rooftops. At the top you will have the best view of the city's ancient streets.  From the highest point in the city you can see far over the surrounding countryside, from the White Horse at Kilburn to the Yorkshire Wolds.
Undercroft:  Descending into the Undercroft is like stepping back in time. When the Central Tower was in serious risk of collapse in the late 1960s work was done to shore up its foundations.  Workers found the remains of buildings that once existed on this site. You can see the ancient remains discovered beneath the present Minster when archaeologists worked on one of the most important sites in England.

Café: Situated within the splendour of St William's College, our 80 seat licensed restaurant offers a wide selection of home-made dishes, prepared daily from fresh ingredients.  With pavement and courtyard seating during the summer months, enjoy a freshly ground coffee, light snack or full meal amongst these magnificent surroundings with the Minster towering above.  We are open from 10.00am to 5.00pm and in the evening from 6.30pm to 9.30pm.
275 steps up to the top of the tower passing gargoyles and seeing over the treetops.  Explore the undercroft where buildings that once existed on the site can be seen.  Guided tour 9-4 are free and last l l/2 hours online

(We walk away from the Minster along College Street to about halfway down the street.)

J-St. Williams College-£1.00 (9-5) 
 Williams College is dedicated to William Fitzherbert, the nephew of King Stephen and great grandson of William The Conqueror. Fitzherbert was Archbishop of York in 1153 and a popular man - the crowds that gathered to celebrate his first official entry were so great that the Ouse Bridge, then made of wood, collapsed beneath their weight as they passed towards the Minster. The college was built between 1465 and 1467 as the home of the cathedral chantry priests.  St Williams College has a wealth of interesting features. Twelve carved oak figures symbolising the the labours of the months decorate the roof of the inner courtyard and a sundial is on our right as we walk forward towards the semi-timbered building which spans the street. This is all that remains of  a covered way which Richard II allowed the vicars-choral to build so they could cross to Minster Yard without being molested.

K-Holy Trinity Church-Upon reaching the end of College Street we cross the road into Goodramgate and the centre of medieval York. A little further down the street we turn right into Our Ladies Row.  The houses in Our Ladies Row are the oldest buildings in the city and among the oldest in England.   Built in 1316 in the churchyard of Holy Trinity, they were intended to endow a chantry of the blessed Virgin Mary.  Go past them and on to the ancient and wonderfully peaceful Holy Trinity Church.  The tiny churchyard of Holy Trinity is one of the most serene locations in the city. After pausing here for a while we make our way into the church through a small, low vestibule.  Holy Trinity dates from the first half of the twelfth century, with thirteenth and fourteenth century additions. The stained glass over the alter was a gift of Rector John Walker and is a particularly rare example of York
glass from the late Perpendicular period (1470-1489.)  Also above the alter are boards displaying the Lord's Prayer and Exodus X in gold lettering.

(After retracing our steps we continue along Goodramgate to King's Square.)

L-King's Square-  It is hard to believe, among the bustle of busy shoppers, that we are standing where the kings of Northumbria and the Danish Kingdom had their residence between 626 and 954AD.  Egil Skallagrim, a tenth century Icelandic warrior and bard mentions 'King's Garth' in a saga written after a visit to York.  Until its demolition in 1937, the dominating feature here was the Church Of The Holy Trinity In The King's Court; now only fragments of the gravestones remain.

(Ahead of us is Church Street, formerly known as Girdlergate, when it served as the belt-makers district. Continuing across the square, to our left is Colliergate, the charcoal dealers street, to our right, The Shambles.)

M-The Shambles- No other street in the city evokes the feeling of medieval life more vividly than the Shambles with the upper storeys of its fifteenth century houses leaning above us, the roofs on either side almost almost touching each other across the street.  This is the ancient street of the butchers of York. It takes its name from 'Shamel', meaning the stalls or benches on which the meat was displayed.  Also notice the raised pavements on either side of the main cobbled street, this forms a channel through which the butchers would wash away their waste, offal and blood twice a week. The Shambles is often called Europe's best preserved medieval street, although the name is also used to collectively refer to the surrounding maze of narrow, twisting lanes and alleys as well. The street itself is mentioned in the Domesday Book, so we know that it has been in continuous existence for over 900 years.  The name "Shambles" comes from the Saxon "Fleshammels", which means, "the street of the butchers", for it was here that the city's butcher's market was located. Notice the wide window sills of the houses; the meat for sale was displayed here.  The butcher's shops have now been replaced with shops catering to visitors, including jewelry and antiques; indeed, the Shambles is now one of the premier shopping areas in the city of York.

N-St. Margaret Clitheroe-About half way up The Shambles is the famous house of St Margaret Clitheroe.  St Margaret Clitheroe was the wife of a butcher who died when she refused to renounce the Catholic faith.  She lived in this house and kept a small room to hide priests from persecution but was arrested, tried and crushed to death on March 25 1586. She was made a saint in 1970.

(At the end of the Shambles, before reaching the main road, we turn left down a small alley to the intriguingly named Whip-Ma-Whop-Ma-Gate.)

O-Whip-Ma-Whop-Ma-Gate -  The shortest street in York was known as 'Whitnourwhatnourgate' during the sixteenth century but took its present name when it became the location of a pillory and whipping cart where the city's petty criminals were publicly flogged.

(Turning right at the end of Whoop-Ma-Whop-Ma-Gate we walk up the main road (Pavement) to All Saints Church at the junction of Coppergate and High Ousegate. )

P-All Saints Church- All Saints Church was first mentioned in the Domesday book but its registers do not begin until 1554. The pulpit is dated 1634 and the lectern, salvaged from the church of St Crux is an example of very high quality fifteenth century woodwork.
More than any other church in York, All Saints is associated with the municipal and guild life of the city - 39 Lord Mayors are buried here - and the will boards around the pillars make interesting reading.

(We cross Coppergate and turn left down Coppergate Walk to the Jorvik Viking Centre, one of York's most popular attractions. Further on, facing the tower is the Castle Museum, whose enormous collection of folk artifacts makes it one of the most interesting and unusual museums in the country.)

Q-Jorvik Viking Centre-(walk by) A few paces on from the Jorvik Centre we turn left to join Castlegate, then right again onto Tower street. Continuing up Tower Street, we pass the western end of St George's Field to the right. Just beyond this popular park you can catch your first glimpse of the River Ouse.  

R-Clifford's Tower BHP £3 (10-6) In 1068, William the Conqueror constructed a large mound (motte) on the banks of the River Ouse and built a wooden castle at the top. Just over 100 years later, amid the riots in York when a group of Jews took refuge in the tower, it was burned to the ground. Something of a gruesome legend exists about this incident. Apparently, the reddish vein running through the brickwork on the outside of the tower, was 'dyed' by the blood of the Jewish victims as they were mercilessly slaughtered.  A second timber construction was erected but, early in the 13th century, this tower was blown down by a devastating gale. In 1245 Henry III ordered the tower to be rebuilt and strengthened. Consequently, a quatrefoil tower of four overlapping circles - resembling a four-leafed clover - was built, as well as a curtain wall with semi-circular towers, and two gateways built around the bailey of York Castle. The stone building was completed in 1313, but less than fifty years later the castle cracked from top to bottom when part of the mound subsided into the moat. In 1322, Roger de Clifford was hanged by chains from the wall of the tower for opposing Edward II, and after that the keep was known as 'Clifford's Tower'.  What remains today dates largely from the 13th century, albeit with some later alterations. As well as Clifford's Tower, parts of the curtain wall around the old castle bailey still remain. The unusual shape of the motte was as a result of flooding in the Middle Ages.   Spiral staircases, on either side of the archway entrance to the tower, lead to the upper floors and the wall walk. Looking over the area of the castle bailey, it is possible to see the three buildings dating from the 18th century that have survived - the Debtor's prison, the Female prison and the Assize Court.

(Rejoining Tower Street, we continue along the line of the river Ouse and turn right into St Georges Field.)

S-Georges Field- Until 1607 St George's Field was the location of the cucking, or ducking stool used for the punishment of female offenders. They were strapped in the stool and plunged three times into the river for offences such as using false measures, brewing bad beer or excessive scolding. We walk across the field to the river bank and take in the view across the water. The large and impressive brick building straight ahead is the Bonding Warehouse, a particularly fine example of commercial archictecture, now converted to a bar and live music venue.  Walking across the grass to the base of Skeldergate Bridge we climb a short flight of stone steps to the street.

(To our left is Castle Mills Bridge and the massive Fishergate Postern defensive emplacement.)

T-Fishergate Postern- A massive square building just beyond Castle Mills Bridge, the Fishergate Postern served as the main defense for this area of the city walls.  Behind Castle Mills Bridge which spans the River Foss, is a flood barrier to control the amount of water flowing from the Foss to the Ouse (the two rivers meet a few hundred yards below Skeldergate Bridge.)
We turn on to Skeldergate Bridge passing an old toll house - the bridge was declared free of tolls in 1914. 
There are beautiful views both up and down the river with a particularly fine view of the Ouse Bridge to your right.

(Upon reaching the opposite bank we cross the road and find ourselves at the end of another section of the city wall with a mound called Baile Hill rising beyond it.)

U-Baile Hill- The Old Baille was York's second castle and was built at the same time as Clifford's Tower which we visited earlier but was smaller and less prominent than its twin.
The original tower, of wooden construction, was badly damaged in the fighting of 1069. It passed into the possession of the Archbishops of York in 1200 and after a dispute about maintenance was acquired by the city in 1460.
Later used for the grazing of cattle, archery practice and traditional Shrove Tuesday games, all that survives today is the motte (mound) and a small part of the embankment.  Leaving Baile Hill behind, we walk along Skeldergate beside the river. The high wall which constitutes the river front here was built in 1305 by the city's merchants to protect their wharfs and warehouses.  A few yards along Skeldergate, on the corner of Carr's Lane is Dame Middleton's Hospital. Built in 1659 by Dame Anne Middleton, wife of Peter Middleton, Sheriff of York, it was founded as a hostel for the widows of twenty freemen. Notice the stone effigy of Dame Middleton outside the entrance.
At the end of Skeldergate we turn right into Queen's Staith and then onto the Ouse Bridge.  Directly ahead we can see the picturesque Kings Arms Inn.

(Upon reaching the opposite bank we cross the road and head along Low Ousegate.)

V-Statues of Two Cats-past the statues of two cats.   Looking up to our right above the row of shops we can see two cats, one a stalking black, the other a ginger tom. These were erected by Sir Stephen Aitcheson - a local grocer - in the 1920's and are an interesting throwback to ancient days when warehouses in the area were endowed with stone cats to frighten away rats. 

(Continue to the ancient Church of St Michael on the corner of Spurriergate (the street of the spur makers).

W-Church of St. Michael-  It is said that the Church Of St Michael was given to St Mary's Abbey by William the Conqueror but the catalogue of rectors does not begin until 1255. Before entering the church notice the ornate clock on the wall facing Low Ousegate.
St Michael's has been sensitively converted to a Christian Centre selling wholesome, freshly prepared food and fairly traded goods from around the world. The lofty 12th century arcades and part of a Jesse window make this one of York's most beautiful eateries.
A little further up the road we turn right into Nessgate then right again down Cumberland Street past the Grand Opera House before heading along King's Staith and back over the Ouse Bridge.
Turning right at the end of the Ouse Bridge along the riverside footpath, we pass the Viking Hotel and the peaceful Joseph Rowntree Gardens, presented to the city in 1959 by the local chocolate manufacturer.
At the end of the footpath we join North Street, where a narrow pavement on the other side of the road leads to the entrance of All Saints Church. A little way past the church notice the three renovated fifteenth century cottages to your left.
The old building with the carved cornerpost is all that remains of a Dominican Friary which stood here between 1228 and 1539.

 

(Beside the river near the foot of Lendal bridge is the location of a large Roman temple. )

X-Old Roman Temple- During excavations in 1989 more than 1000 bronze coins, a gold ear-ring, a jet signet ring, an engraving of a swan and evidence of sacrificial offering were among the objects found.  Built in 180AD, it is believed the temple was dedicated to the Roman gods Jupiter and Bacchus.

Y-Lendal Tower-We cross Lendal Bridge past the former toll-house and arrive at Lendal Tower before continuing up Museum Street to the entrance of the Museum Gardens and the end of our tour. 
The imposing tower at the eastern end of Lendal Bridge originally served as a defensive emplacement but was later adapted, during the seventeenth century, to a waterworks. A pumping station within the tower, worked by two horses, supplying water to the citizens of York.

(Continue southeast on High Petergate, which will become Low Petergate and finally Colliergate.  Turn right/west on Pavement, which becomes Coppergate.  Go left/south on Clifford.)

(Go back north on Clifford.  Turn right/east on Coppergate.  It will become Pavement.  Look for The Shambles on the left/north side.

6:00 p.m.

Depart:

York

(Go back to Pavement St and turn right.  It will become Coppergate.  Turn right on Nessgate.  It will go left into Low Ousegate, which becomes Bridge, Mickelgate, St. Catherine's Pl, then Blossom.  Turn right on A59.  It will become Holgate, Poppleton and Boroughbridge.   It will become York Rd and New Roadside before crossing over the A1/47.  At the roundabout continue on A59 through Knaresborough.  It will become York Pl and High St before going left on Bond End.   It will become Harrogate, Forest Lane Head, High St and Knaresborough.  At the roundabout continue on the 3rd exit/A59/Skipton Rd.  It will go through the Yorkshire Dales before becoming Long Causeway.  At a roundabout A59 will combine with A65.  Continue on A65 through the Grassington roundabout.  At the next roundabout take the 3rd exit left again on A59.  Stay on the A59 for a long time.  At Gisburn it is Main St.  At Langho it is called Longsight Rd and later Myerscough Smithy Rd, Whalley Rd and Preston New Rd.  At the M6/31 enter it after crossing it and 2 roundabouts to go north.  Enter the M55 going left/west.  Just outside Blackpool exit on the roundabout onto A583/Preston New Rd going left/north.  At a roundabout go left on A5073/Waterloo Rd.  Go right/north on Central Dr/A5099.  Turn left on New Bonny St.  Turn right on Promenade.  3 block down turn right on Church St.  In two block turn left on Corporation St.  In two blocks turn right on Birley to the bank.)

8:00 p.m.

Arrive:

Blackpool

100

Barclays Bank
2/4 Birley Street

(Go back to south to Corporation and turn right/north.  Turn left/west on Talbot Sq.  Turn left/south on Promenade.  Turn left on New Bonny St.  Turn left/north on Central Dr.  Turn right/east on Albert Rd.  Turn right/south on Coronation St.  Turn left/east on Hornby to the hotel.)

8:30 p.m.

Blackpool

Lodge:

Golden Nile Hotel
55-57 Hornby Road
Blackpool FY1 4QJ
Tel: 01253 621316
£20 pppn for B&B ($156.05)
All rooms are en-suite and have full central heating, colour TVs and Tea & Coffee making facilities, Free Parking front and back

(220)

Day 8

Wednesday

July 25th

(Turn right on one of the side streets.  At Read's Ave turn right again.  Turn right on Central Dr.  Turn left on New Bonny St and left/south again on Promenade. Turn left on Balmoral Rd to the parking lot.)

See:

Blackpool Pleasure Beach £29.00/£18.00 $37.54  (11-8:30)
Paid with Debit

(Go back to Promenade.  Turn right/east on New Bonny.  Turn left/north on Central.  Turn right/east on New Albert.  Turn right/south on Coronation Rd.  Turn left/east on Hornby.)

Lodge:

Golden Nile Hotel

Day 9

Thursday

July 26th

8:00 a.m.

Depart:

 Blackpool

(Continue east on Hornby, then turn right on Park Rd.  It will end to go east on A583/Preston New Rd.  Go through the roundabout at M55 and the smaller one after it.  The road will become Blackpool Rd, Kirkham Bypass and Blackpool Rd again.  At the junction with A5085 continue right on A583.  It will be called Riversway and Watery Ln.   Go right/south on A5072/W Strand.  At the next junction go right on A59 going southwest to Liverpool.  It will be called Guild Way, Liverpool Rd, Longton Bypass, Liverpool Rd, Bank Bridge, Windgate, then turn south to be Liverpool Rd again.  It will be called Causeway Ln, Moss Ln, Liverpool Rd S, High Ln, County Ln in Ormskirk, Holborn Hill, Liverpool Rd, and Northway.)

9:00 a.m.

Arrive:

Liverpool

47

(In Liverpool A59 is called Northway, then Ormskirk Rd, then Warbeck War, then Walton Vale, and then Rice Ln.  At the roundabout take A5058/Queens Drive Walton going east/left.  Exit right onto Townsend Lane/A580 (not the 1st turnoff for A580/Walton Hall Ln).  Cross the railroad tracks.  Turn right/west on Abbey Rd in 12 blocks.  It is after Cathedral Rd.) 

See:

Abbey Road Studios
3 Abbey Road

(Go back to Townsend Lane and turn right/south.  Turn right on A5089/Oakfield Rd in 8 blocks.  It will become Walton Breck Rd. , then Everton Valley before entering A59/Kirkdale Rd going left/southwest.  It will be become Scotland Rd.  At the roundabout take the Kingsway exit left to cross the river. Continue straight ahead as it will enter M53.  At the 4th roundabout take A41/New Chester Rd left/south.  It will split off right away south on Welsh Rd./A550.  At Queensferry it will become A494/Ashton Rd and cross a river and a railroad track.  Continue southwest.  At the next junction take A55 straight ahead to the west.  Take the Ffordd 6 G Road/A546 roundabout exit to the left just before Conway.  At the roundabout take the A547/Conway Rd. exit left across the Irish Sea.  Stay on A547 onto Rose Hill St to the parking lot on the left.)

10:30 a.m.

Arrive:

Conwy

63

See:

Conway Castle BHP £4.75 (9:30-6)-Conwy, constructed by the English monarch Edward I between 1283 and 1289 as one of the key fortresses in his 'iron ring' of castles to contain the Welsh, was built to prompt such a humbling reaction.  The views from the battlements are breathtaking looking out across mountains and sea and down to the roofless shell of the castles 125ft Great Hall. It is from these battlements that visitors can best appreciate Conwy's other great glory, its ring of town wall.
     From the quay, visitors may walk around the outside of the walls for the entire circuit, except at the south-western corner where they should re-enter by the Upper Gate; walk down Rosemary Lane and take the footpath beside the Catholic church to the site of Llywelyn's Hall and Tower 16; leave by the station and go through the Mill Gate. The Mill Gate led down to the king's mill on the river Gyffin, a corn mill previously belonging to the abbey. The gate is unusual in that its towers contain domestic accommodation. This part of the town, with the lodgings of the major officials and their record offices was burnt in the Owain Glyndwr revolt of 1401.
     It  is possible to walk along the top of the north wall; access points are at Tower 5 and the Upper Gate. Originally there were no openings in the north wall. Even now, pierced by two roads, it is still one of the finest stretches of medieval town wall in Britain.

(Walk down the town walls to the left.  If they cannot be walked, then follow Rose Hill onto Bangor.  At Upper Gate look for the entrance to the castle walls.  Walk on top to Lower Gate.  Exit onto Quay/Lower Gate.  The house is northwest of High St on Lower Gate.)

See:

Smallest House in Britain-75p (10-9)  the red painted dwelling consists of two rooms linked by a staircase and was said to have been built in the town walls to avoid paying taxes.  The house's last inhabitant was said to be a fisherman. 

(From Lower Gate St on the waterfront going southeast, turn right/west on High St.  The house is on the left just past Castle.)

See:

Plas Mawr-BHP £4.90 (9:30-6) The 'Great Hall', built between 1576 and 1585 for the influential Welsh merchant, Robert Wynn.  It is the finest surviving town house of the Elizabethan era to be found anywhere in Britain and the 1st Welsh home to be built within the castle walls.  Audioguide included

(Continue on High Street.  Just past Crown Ln the house is on the right.)

Aberconwy House- BHP £3 (10-5:30) Believed to be the oldest town house in Wales dating from the 14th-century (RS-not worth touring)

(Continue southwest on High St.) 

Lancaster Square-Its centerpiece is a column honoring the town's founder, the Welsh prince Llywelyn the Great.  Find the cute pointed arch built into the medieval wall so the train could get through.  Turn right on York Place (past Alfredo's restaurant) to a wall of slate memorials from the 1937 coronation of King George.  Notice the Welsh lesson here:  the counties (shires), months (only mai is recognizable, days, numbers, and alphabet with its different letters.) 

Do:

Lunch-
Fisherman's-good fish and chips (High St)
Conwy Pantry-daily lunch specials and sweets (26 High St)

(Turn left on Rose Hill back to the car.)

12:30 p.m.

Depart:

Conway

(Go back to Conway Rd/A547 and go right/northwest.  It will change names to Bangor Road as it circles around.  Enter A55 going left/west.  Cross the river onto the Isle of Anglesey.  Take the 1st exit onto Holyhead Rd/A4080 to the left.  Follow the signs into town.)

1:00 p.m.

Arrive:

Llanfairpwllgwyngyll or   
Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch commonly known as Llanfair PG, is a village on the island of Anglesey in Wales, situated on the Menai Strait next to Menai Bridge and across the strait from Bangor. The long form of the name is the longest officially recognized place name in the United Kingdom and one of the longest in the world, being 58 letters in length. The name means: "St Mary's church in the hollow of the white hazel near to the rapid whirlpool and the church of St Tysilio of the red cave".Post Office-longest name (58 letters)

19

See:

Post Office

(Go back on A5/A4080 to the left to the entrance to A5/A55 going to the right/south.  After crossing the river outside of Conway at the roundabout take the 4th left/south on A470/Llanwst Rd/Conway Rd.   Turn right/northwest on A5/Pentre Gwyn Rd to the town. It will become Ffordd Caergybi.)

2:00 p.m.

Arrive:

Betws-y-Coed

35

Snowdonia National Park Visitor Center

(Go west on A5.)

See:

Swallow Falls £1 (9-5)  5 minute walk.  Food at Swallow Falls Hotel nearby

2

(Go back south on the A5 to the junction with A470.  Fairy Glen is reached by a path from Fairy Glen Hotel beside the A470.)

Fairy Glen-One of the principal natural attractions of the village, and where Wuhelmina Stitch, "waits and waits, to see the fairy men. Located only a short distance from Beaver bridge, a combination of rapids and cascades on the Conwy river are chanelled into a narrow ravine presenting an impressive and dramatic scene. Wooded banks and rock walls clothed with vegetation add to the charm.

3:00 p.m.

Depart:

Betws-y-Coed

(Go back on A5/Fflordd Caergybl Rd. going southeast.  At B4406 turn right.  Falls is behind the Conwy Falls Cafe.)

See:

Conwy Falls £1.00

(Continue back on A5.  Turn left/north on Castle St.)

3:45 p.m.

Arrive:

Llangollen-Shops on Castell
Llangollen Map:



1-Plas Newydd
3-Llangollen Bridge
5-Valle Crucis Abbey
6-Elisegs Pillar
10-Horseshoe Falls
12-Pontcysyllte Aqueduct

33

See:

3-Llangollen Bridge- Built in 1345 by John Trevor I, Bishop of St Asaph.  The bridge was rebuilt in Elizabethan times and that structure remains to this day unaltered on the lower side and perfectly copied on the upper side when it was widened in 1873.

(Turn left/west on Abbey Rd/A542.) 

5-Valle Crucis Abbey- BHP (10-5) The spectacular remains of Valle Crucis, this once proud Cistercian Abbey were built, probably on the site of earlier buildings, in c.1200 by a local Welshman, Madoc ap Gruffydd, Prince of Powys who lived at Dinas Bran Castle.   Dissolved in 1535, Valle Crucis Abbey quickly fell into disrepair and parts even became a farm during the 17th century.  A true sign of its once great importance was the discovery of the grave slab of Madog ap Gruffudd Fychan - great grandfather of the last true Welsh prince, Owain Glyndwr. This is now on display at the Abbey.

(Drive back to the town and park the car.  Walk along the trail along the canal heading east/right. )

(Walk back to town to look at the shops.)

Do:

The Old Tailor's Chocolate Shop-Come and choose from a vast selection of continental chocolates either loose or pre-packed.Whatever the occasion we have chocolates to suit. Traditional confectionery, Ice Creams and Jelly Beans all on offer.  (Corner of A5/Berwyn and Heoly Castell Rd/A539.)

Nice Things and Country Kitchen-Home made food and the gift shop (Go north on Castell/A539, then left on the first street Market.)

6:00 p.m.

Depart:

Llangollen

(Right side of the road.)

1-Plas Newydd- BHP £6.60 (Closed)
Plas Newydd, home of Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Sarah Ponsonby, "The two most celebrated virgins in Europe." Plas Newydd has attracted visitors since the Ladies moved there in1780.  An exceptional house, steeped in history containing many artifacts connected with the 'Ladies of Llangollen'.  Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Sarah Ponsonby soon became objects of both curiosity and affection Seen as somewhat eccentric, they extended the house and from 1798 onwards began adding the beautiful wooden carvings on view today. These came from various sources including, church chests, canopies and even bedsteads. Visitors also contributed when guests of the Ladies in Plas Newydd. These included William Wordsworth, Sir Walter Scott and The Duke of Wellington.

(Continue east on A5.  It will be called Regent St and Queen St.  At a roundabout go left/north on A483.  Jut north of Wrexham turn left/east on A5156/Acton Llan-y-pwyll Link Rd.  It will enter A534/Wrexham Rd on the east side of Wrexham.  Go left/east. It will become Barton Rd., Broxton Rd, Barnhill Rd, Nantwich Rd, Salters Ln., and finally Wrexham Rd. before entering A49 for a bit.  Enter back into A534/Wrexham Rd going east.  It will go north around Nanwich and go straight into A51.  At the roundabout go left/east on  A500 through Newcastle-under-Lyme and around Stoke-on-Trent..  At the roundabout south of Stoke-on-Trent take the 1st left on A50/Queensway going east.) 

7:15 p.m.

Arrive:

Uttoxeter

74

(At roundabout in Uttoxeter take Asbourne Rd/B5030 going left/north.  At the next roundabout take the 2nd left/south onto  A518/The Dove Way.  It will become Town Meadows Way which will become Bridge St.  It is on the right.)

Lodge:

Oldroyd Guesthouse & Motel
18-22 Bridge Street
Uttoxeter Staffordshire ST14 8AP
01889 562763
£80 Double and 2 Twins with hair dryer, TV and ensuite, full English breakfast, large carpark
Reserved 03/10/07 by Sam

(271)

Day 10

Friday

July 27th

Depart:

Uttoxeter

(Go back up Bridge to the roundabout and turn left/north on A518/Town Meadow Way.  At the 3rd roundabout turn left/north on Dove Way.  It will cross A50.  At the roundabout turn left/north on B5030.   At the roundabout go left/north on Ashbourne.  Just past Rocester go left on Elm View/B5031, then left again on Denstone.  It will become Salterford Lane at Alton.  Turn right/north on Uttoxeter Rd.  Turn left on Lime Kiln Ln.  It will enter Smithy Bank going north.  Turn left on Mailhouse Rd and immediately right on New Rd.  Follow New Rd.  It will enter Farley Ln continuing north.  At Wootton Ln should be the park entrance.  OR follow signs.) 

Do:

Alton Towers (Park 9:30, Rides 10) £29.50                                                                         
Order confirmation TGC107723572 £24.00 plus £1.50 fee
Paid with Debit

7 

(Go east on Denstone Ln.  Turn left/north on Quixhill Bank Ln.  At Ashbourne it will become Asbourne Rd.  At A52 turn right/east.  At the second roundabout take the first exit left on A515/Belper Rd. north.  It will go left at Compton St. after a few blocks, then right on St. John St. and finally junction left on Buxton St.  Eventually turn right/east on A5012.  Turn left/north on B5056.  Turn left/west on A6.  At the roundabout in Bakewell turn left/north on A619 on Rutland Sq.  It will become Bridge, then Baslow.  Turn right on Bakewell Rd, then left at the sign to Chatsworth.)    

Arrive:

Chatsworth

34

See:

Chatsworth House - BHP £12.40 (10:30-6 House and Garden, 11-5:30 Shop, 10:15-5 Restaurant, Parking £1.50 )  The home of the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire is set in the magnificent landscape of Derbyshire’s Peak District National Park, and is seen in the recently released film of ‘Pride and Prejudice’.  Pemberley, Mr. Darcy’s family home

(From the Chatsworth Rd. turn right on Bakewell Rd, then left/west on A619.  You will come into Bakewll town on Rutland Square.  At the roundabout take King St. or Matlock St., then King St. southeast.  It will become Church St, then Monyash Rd. and finally Tagg Ln.  Turn left/south at A515.  At Ashbourne turn right/west on A52/Mayfield Rd.  Then turn left/south on Ashbourne Rd.  It will go to Alton.)   

OR

(From Alton Towers go east on Wootton Ln.  It will become Waste Ln, then go right into Westhouse Ln.  Continue straight into Maripit Ln.  Turn right at B5032.  At the junction go left on B5030.  Continue straight.  At the roundabout go left/south on Dove/B5030.  It will become Town Meadow, then Bridge.) 

Arrive:

Uttoxeter

(40)

Lodge:

Oldroyd Guesthouse & Motel

(95)

Day 11

Saturday

July 28th

7:30 a.m.

Depart:

Uttoxeter

(From Bridge go south to Town Meadow Way/Hwy 522/518 roundabout and take the 1st left going north.  Go through the next roundabout.  At the 3rd one take the last left onto Derby Rd.  At the A50 roundabout take the 3rd/last left going east.  Continue on A50.  Turn left/south on Burton Rd/A38.  It will become Derby Rd, Lichfield, Burton Rd, Station Rd, London Rd and  Turf Pitts Ln.  At the Sutton Coldfield Bypass roundabout take the 2nd left on London Rd/A446.  It will be called Lichfield Rd.  At the Kingsbury Rd roundabout take the 4th left/south on  M42/6.  It will enter the M40 going east/left.  Take exit 16 left.  turn right/south on A3400/Stratford Rd.  It will change to Liveridge Hill, Birmingham Rd, High St, then Stratford Rd and Birmingham again.   Cross three rivers into Stratford-upon-Avon.  At the next small roundabout take the 3rd left on Windsor.  Turn immediately onto Henley-if it doesn't go through turn left on Woods St, then left on Henley.)

9:00 a.m.

Arrive:

  Stratford-upon-Avon

70

Barclays Bank
Market Cross

(Go northwest on Henley to house or park and walk.)

9:15 a.m.

Shakespeare's Birthplace and Visitor Centre £7.00 or BHP (9-5 daily) Built in 1556 and Shakespeare was born here in 1564.  

(Continue on Henley northwest.  Turn left/south on Windsor St. to Greenhill St.  Turn right/west.  On Alden St./A4390 turn left/south.  It will become Groves Rd, then Evesham Pl.  At the roundabout take the 3rd exit left onto Shottery Rd.  At the Y continue right on Shottery, then left, then right again.  Turn left on Cottage Ln.  Look for house on the left.)

10:15 a.m.

See:

Anne Hathaway's Cottage £5.50 or BHP (9-5 daily) Childhood home of Shakespeare's home

(Continue on Cottage Ln.  At Green Rd jog left, then right on Hathaway Green Ln.  Enter Alcester Rd/A422 going right/east.  Go through the roundabout.  Go right/south on Arden/Groves Rd/A4390.  Go through the roundabout on A4390/7 Meadow Rd/1st exit.  At the next roundabout continue on A4390 east/2nd exit.  At the next roundabout take the 3rd exit Shipston Rd/A3400 south.  Almost immediately turn right on Clifford Ln.  It will cross a river and become Campden Rd.  It will change to Stratford Rd. in Mickelton and turn left.  It will turn right on Granbrook Lane and go into High St. before becoming Campden Rd. again. As it enters town it will go left/south into Aston Rd., right on Leysbourne, then  High St.  Park on High St.)

11:15 a.m.

Arrive:

Chipping Camden

12

1-Magistrate’s Court-A meeting room in the old police station.

(Cross High Street.)

2-Market Hall- Built in 1627 by the 17^th century Lord of the Manor, Sir Baptist Hicks.  (Look for the Hicks family coat of arms in the building’s façade.)  Back then it was elegant-even over-the-top- shopping hall for townsfolk who’d come here to buy produce.  In the 1940’s it was almost sold to an American, but the townspeople heroically raised money to buy it first, then gave it to the National Trust for its preservation.  The timbers inside are true to the original.  Study the classical Cotswold stone roof, still held together with wooden pegs nailed in from underneath.  (Tiles were cut and sold with peg holes, and stacked like waterproof scales.)  Buildings all over the region still use these stone shingles.  Today, the hall hosts local fairs.

3A- High Street-It has changed little architecturally since 1840.  (The town’s street plan survives from the 12^th century.)  Notice the harmony of the long rows of buildings.  While the street comprises different styles throughout the centuries, everything you see was made of the same Cotswold stone-the only stone allowed today.
To be level, High Street arcs with the contour of the hillside.  Because it’s so wide, you know this was a market town.  In past centuries, livestock and packhorses laden with piles of freshly shorn fleece would fill the streets.  Campden was a sales and distribution center for the wool industry, and merchants from as far as Italy would come here for the prized raw wool.
High does not have house numbers-people know the house by their names.  In the distance, you can see the town church (where this walk ends).

 (Walk up/east on High Street to just before the 1^st intersection.)

3-Grevel House- In 1367, William Grevel built what is considered Campden’s first stone house.  (on the left)  Sheep tycoons had big homes.  Imagine back then, when this fine building was surrounded by humble wattle-and-daub huts.  It had newfangled chimneys, rather than a crude hole in the roof.  (No more rain inside!)  Originally a “hall house” with just one big, tall room, it got its upper floor in the 16^th century.  The finely carved central bay window is a good early example of the Perpendicular Gothic style.  The gargoyles scared away bad spirits-and served as rain spouts.  The boot scrapers outside each door were a fixture in that muddy age-especially in market towns, where the streets were filled with animal dung.

(Continue up High Street for about 100 yards.  Go past Church Street (which we’ll walk up later).  Across the street, you’ll find a small Gothic arch leading into a garden.)

4-Ernest Wilson Memorial Garden Free (8 until dusk)
Small and secluded, once the church’s vegetable patch, is a botanist’s delight today.  It’s filled with well-labeled plants that the Victorian botanist Ernest Wilson brought back to England from his extensive travels in Asia.  There’s a complete history of the garden on the board to the left of the entry.

(Backtrack to Church Street.  Turn left, walk past the Eight Bells Inn (15), and head around the corner.)

5 & 6-Baptist Hicks Land-Holds Hicks’ huge estate and manor house.  This influential Lord of the Manor was from “a family of substance,” who were merchants of silk and fine clothing as well as moneylenders.  Beyond the ornate gate, only a few outbuildings and the charred corner of his mansion survive.  The mansion was burned by Royalists in 1645 during the Civil War-notice how Cotswold stone turns red when burned.  Hicks housed the poor, making a show of his generosity, adding a long row of almshouses (with his family coat of arms) for neighbors to see as they walked to church.  These almshouses (lining Church Street on the left) built in 1612 at a total cost of £1,000, house 6 poor men and 6 poor women.  They still house 12 pensioners today, as they have since the 17^th century.  Across the road from the almshouses is a cart dip, for washing cartwheels.

(Walk between the almshouses and the wall that lines the Hicks estate to the church, where a scenic, tree-lined lane leads to the front door.  On the way, notice the 12 lime trees, one for each of the apostles, that were planted in abut 1760 (sorry, no limes).

7-St. James Church (10-5)
 One of the finest churches in the Cotswolds, it graces one of its leading towns.  Both the town and the church were built by wood wealth.  The church is Perpendicular Gothic, with lots of light and strong verticality.  Before you leave, notice the fine vestments and altar hangings behind protective blue curtains (near the back of the church).  Tombstones pave the floor-memorializing great wool merchants through the ages. 
At the altar is a brass relief of William Grevel, the first owner of the Grevel House and his wife.  In the way that Baptist Hicks dominated the town, Grevel dominates the church.  His huge, canopied tomb is the ornate final resting place for Grevel and his wife, Elizabeth.  Study their faces, framed by fancy lace ruffs (trendy in the 1620’s).  Adjacent-as if in a closet-is a statue of their daughter, Lady Juliana, and her husband, Lutheran Yokels.  Juliana commissioned the statue in 1642, when her husband died, but had it closed until she died in 1680.  Then the doors were opened, revealing these two people living happily ever after-at least in marble.  The hinges were likely only ever used once.
Campden Store-across from the market and next to the T1 on High Street-food for a picnic. 

(Go back to the car.  Go west on High St.  Turn left/south on Sheep St.  See the thatched houses.)

See:

Thatched Houses
WC on the left.  Then continue on Sheep Rd.  Turn right.  Just around the corner is several thatched homes.   

(Continue on B4081/Sheep St to Westington/Catbrook/Conduit Hill/B4081.  At A44/5 Mile Dr go left/southeast.   At the Y enter A424 going south.  It will become Evesham Rd coming into town.  Turn right for a tiny bit on A429, then left on High St.  Park on Market Square-free for two hours.)

12:30 p.m.

Arrive:

Stow-on-the-Wold

10

See:

1.  Stocks on the Market Square- Imagine this village during the time when people were publicly ridiculed here as a punishment.  Stow was born in pre-Roman times; it’s where three trade routes crossed at a high point in the region (altitude:  800 feet).  This main square hosted an international fair starting in 1107, and people came from as far away as Italy for the wool fleeces.  This grand square was a vast, grassy expanse.  Picture it in the Middle Ages (before the buildings in the center were added):  a public commons and grazing ground, paths worn through the grass, and no well.  Until 1867, Stow had no running water; women fetched water from the “Roman well” a quarter-mile away. 
The stocks are a great photo op.

(Walk past the youth hostel on the left to the market, and cross to the other side of the square.  Notice how locals seem to be part of a tight little community.) 

16- Market Cross- Fro 500 years, the market reminded all Christian merchants to “trade fairly under the sight of God.”  Notice the stubs of the iron fence in the concrete base-a reminder of how countless wrought-iron fences were cut down and given to the government to be melted down during the WWII.  (Recently, it’s been disclosed that all the iron ended up in a junk heaps-frantic patriotism just wasted.)  The plaque on the cross honors the Lord of the Manor, who donated money back to his tenants, allowing the town to finally fiancé running water in 1878.  Scan the square for a tipsy shop locals call the “wonky house”.  Because it lists (tilts) so severely, it’s a listed building-the façade is protected (but the interior is modern and level).

(Across the street on the corner.)

12- The Kings Arms pub, with its great gables and scary chimney, was once an inn where travelers could park their horses and spend the night.  In the 1600’s this was considered the premium “posting house” between London and Birmingham.  Today the pub cooks up some of the best food in the country. 
During the English Civil War, which pitted Parliamentarians against Royalists, Stow-on-the-Wold remained staunchly loyal to the king.  Charles I is said to have eaten at the Kings Arms before a great battle.  Because of it’s allegiance, the town has an abundance of pubs with royal names (King’s This and Queen’s That).

(Walk past the Kings Arms down Digbeth Street to the little triangular park located in front of the Methodist Church and across from the Royalist Hotel.  This hotel-along with about 20 others-claims to be the oldest in England, dating from 947.)

11- Just beyond the small grassy triangle with benches is the place where-twice a year-in May and October, the Gypsy Horse Fair attracts Roma (Gypsies) and Travelers (Irish Tinkers) from far and wide.  They congregate down the street on the Maugersbury Road.  Locals paint a colorful picture of the Roma, Travelers and horses inundating the town.  The young women dress up because the fair also functions as a marriage market.
Greedy’s Fish and Chips – on Park Street is a favorite of the locals for take-out.

(Hike up Sheep Street.  You’ll pass a boutique-filled former brewery yard, Fleece Alley (just wide enough for a single file of sheep to walk on-easier to count them on market days.), and a fine antique bookstore.  Turn right on Church Street, which leads past the best coffee shop in town (The Coffee House) and find the church.)

Church- (9-6)
Before entering the church, circle around it.  On the back side, a door is flanked by two ancient yew trees.  While to many it looks like the Christian “Behold, I stand at the door and knock” door, Tolkien fans see something quite different.  J.R.R. Tolkien hiked the Cotswolds and had a passion for sketching evocative trees such as this.  “Fellowship of the Ring” enthusiasts are convinced this must be the inspiration for the door into Moria.
While the church dates from Saxon times, today’s structure is from the 15^th century.  Its history is played up in leaflets and plaques just inside the door.  The floor is paved with the tombs of big shots who made their money from wool and are still boastful in death.  (Find the tombs crowned with the bales of wool.)
During the Civil War (1615) more than 1,000 soldiers were imprisoned here.  The tombstone in front of the altar remembers the Royalist Captain Keyt.  His long hair, lace, and sash indicate he was a ”cavalier,” and true blue to the king (Cromwellians were called “round heads” –named for their short hair).  Study the crude provincial art-child-like skulls and (in the upper corners) symbols of his service to the king (armor, weapons).
On the right wall, a monument remembers the many boys from this small town who were lost in WWI (50 out of a population of 2,000).  There were far fewer in WWII.  The biscuit-shaped plaque (to the left) remembers an admiral from Stow who lost four sons defending the realm.  It’s sliced from an ancient fluted column (which locals believe is from Ephesus, Turkey).  While most of the windows are Victorian (19^th century), the two sets high up in the clerestory are from the dreamier Pre-Raphaelite school (c. 1920).
Finally, don’t miss the kneelers, knitted by a committed band of women known as “the Kneeler Group.”  They meet every Tuesday morning at 10:30 in the Church Room to embroider, sip coffee, and enjoy a good chat.  (The vicar assures me that any tourist wanting to join them would be more than welcome.  The help would be appreciated and the company would be excellent.) 

(Go back to A429 and continue south.  Turn left/east on Lansdowne Rd.  It will become High St.  Even during the busy business day, drive right into town and wait for a spot on High Street just past the village green to park (there’s a long row of free two-hour spots in front of the Edinburgh Woolen Mills Shop).

1:30 p.m.

Arrive:

Bourton-on-the Water-Look at shops on High St., then follow the footpath across the street from the telephone booth that is east of Old New Inn towards the river.  Cross the bridge and follow the footpath by the water going west.  Cross back over to the car when you wish.

4 

2:00 p.m.

Depart:

Bourton-on-the-Water

Go back west on High St into Lansdowne.  Go left/south into A429.  At the roundabout take the first left/east into A40.  Go through quite a few small towns.  At the Burford roundabout in Outside Oxford it will become the Norther Bypass Rd.  At the Woodstock roundabout go through to the 3rd left on North Way.  Go through the Banbury Rd roundabout.  It will become Elsfield Way and Northern Bypass.   At the London Rd. roundabout take the 5th left on the London Rd/A420/west.  It will become Headington Rd, then St. Clement's St.  At the roundabout take the 4th exit onto The Plain.  It will become High Street.  Park near High St and St Aldates.)

2:45  p.m.

Arrive:

Oxford

35

Do:

Oxford Classic Walking Tour
The Covered Market is here. 

A-Carfax Tower (10-5) £2.00  The name Carfax is derived from the Latin word 'quadrifucus', meaning 'four forked'. This is where the four ancient routes into Oxford meet at a crossroads and the place King Edward the Elder of Wessex chose to build a lookout tower when the town was fortified in the 9th century.  The tower still affords outstanding aerial views of Oxford and the surrounding countryside and, in particular, affords the best view in Oxford of the gently curving High Street to the East.  Climb 99 steps to the top of the tower to get a bird's eye view of Oxford's "Dreaming Spires".  In 1818 St Martin's church was rebuilt complete with tower.  However, towards the end of the 19th century, mounting traffic problems necessitated road widening. The church, apart from its tower, was demolished in 1896. The tower is all that remains today. On the east facade the church clock is adorned by two "quarter boys", who hit the bells at every "quarter" of the hour.  From Carfax, head south along St Aldates towards the distinctive 'Tom Tower' of Christ Church. As you pass the Abbey National Bank on the corner of Carfax and St Aldates, look out for the small plaque on the wall. This was the site of the infamous Swindlestock Tavern (150 - 1709), scene of the bloody St Scholistica's Day Riot between students and townsfolk in 1355. 

(Continue down the gentle hill for about 400m (1/4 mile), passing Tom Tower on your left until you come to the gates of Christ Church Memorial Gardens 100m beyond the tower. Enter through the large iron gates and climb the steps at the far end of the small gardens. Ahead of you and to the right are the expanses of Christ Church Meadow. If you wish to visit the college and cathedral, you will find a signed entrance to via the Chapter House on the left.)

See:

B-Christ Church College-£4.70 ($8.79) (9-5 p.m.) Harry Potter scenes-Harry Potter scenes-Christ Church was originally founded by Cardinal Wolsey as Cardinal's College in 1524 and re-endowed in 1546 by King Henry VIII.  The famous ‘Tom Tower’ was designed by Sir Christopher Wren and houses the 7 ton ‘Great Tom’ bell, taken from the 12^th century Osney Abbey.  The bell tolls 101 times every night at 9:05 (9 p.m. Oxford local time), originally to sound curfew for college members.  The college and cathedral are open to visitors every day.  The Memorial Gardens are surrounded by Christ Church Meadow, running down to the rivers Thames to the South and Cherwell to the East.  Entry to the gardens and meadows is free. £1.00-brochure

(Continue past the Chapter House and take the first turning on your left, following the path between a stone wall and some low iron railings. To your right, you will see the tower of Magdalen college in the distance. At the end of the path, you will have to squeeze yourself through a tortuous wrought iron gate, cunningly designed to prevent cycles being brought into the meadows! You will now be rewarded with a stunning view of Merton College tower, rising majestically above the trees on your right. Pass through yet another set of iron gates at the end of the path and you will emerge into Merton Street - 'an architectural treasure house, one of the densest assemblages of  historic buildings in the world' in the words of Bill Bryson, the travel writer. You may now want to visit Merton College before continuing with the tour.)

C-Merton College (10-4) JRR Tolkien taught here.  Founded by Walter de Merton in 1264, Merton is one of the three oldest colleges in Oxford. The central quad (Mob Quad) contains the oldest library in the country, which houses a selection of precious medieval manuscripts - so precious, in fact, that they are chained to the walls!  Walter de Merton's conception of a self-governing community of scholars, with its own statutes and endowment, residing in buildings laid out in staircases and quadrangles, created a model and precedent for Oxford and Cambridge colleges founded in the succeeding centuries.  Picturesque Merton Street was home to many of the 11th Century Academic Houses that existed before the colleges came into existence. Today it boasts some of Oxford's most beautiful architecture, including the colleges Merton and Corpus Christi and the grand Canterbury Gate entrance to Christ Church.

(Emerging from the gate onto Merton Street, turn left towards Christ Church's Canterbury Gate, passing Corpus Christi College on your left. Corpus is Oxford's smallest college. Legend has it that the benefactor, who sadly went blind before the college was completed, was lead around the front quad three times to give the impression that the college was much larger than it is. You may not have time to visit, but it is worth peering in through the lodge to catch a glimpse of the unusual sundial. Follow the road round to the right into the colourful Oriel Square. The college on the right of the square is Oriel College, famous for rowing and rugby and for being the last Oxford college to admit women. Continue past Oriel and, keeping to the right hand side of the square, take Oriel Street eventually emerging onto the High Street opposite St Mary's Church.)

D-The University Church of St. Mary the Virgin (9-6) The Tower £2.50 The University Church has been in existence since the late 13th century. In the early days of the University, the Church was a centre of administration and teaching, with the side chapels acting as lecture theatres where students studied mainly Theology. In 1556, it hosted the trial of the protestant Bishops Ridley, Cranmer and Latimer. The 'Oxford Martyrs' where subsequently burnt at the stake for heresy by the Catholic Queen of England, Bloody Mary. The Church is open every day and visitors can climb up the 127 stairs to the top of the spire to get another classic aerial view of Radcliffe Square and the spires of Oxford. Entrance to the church and spire is via Radcliffe Square.  The Church Guide Book indicates the major buildings to be seen. Gift Shop

(Turn right, and cross the High Street at the pedestrian crossing. Walk down Catte Street and you will soon emerge into the magnificent Radcliffe Square. To your right, on the East side of the square, is the exclusive All Souls college. Peer through the imposing iron gates at the front quad with its elegant twin towers, designed by the architect Nicholas Hawksmoor in the 18th century. Facing the square from these gates you will see the University Church to your left, the Bodleian library to your right and Brasenose college on the opposite side. But the crowning glory of the square is undoubtedly the domed Radcliffe Camera at the centre.) 

E-Radcliffe Square and the Radcliffe Camera-The circular dome and drum of the Radcliffe Camera is one of the most distinctive landmarks in a city full of distinctive buildings. The camera (the word means simply "room") was built 1737-1749 with £40,000 bequeathed by Dr John Radcliffe, the royal physician.
The Radcliffe Camera was intended to house a new library, and designs were called for from several leading architects, including Nicholas Hawksmoor (responsible for much of All Soul's College) and James Gibbs.
It was Gibbs who won the competition, with his elegant Palladian design, though his final plans drew heavily on earlier work by Hawksmoor. Gibbs was also responsible for the Church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields, in Trafalgar Square, London.
Originally the library in the Radcliffe Camera held both scientific and general books, but those collections were gradually moved to other University libraries, so that today the Camera functions as the main reading room of the Bodleian Library. The finished building holds some 600,000 books in underground rooms beneath Radcliffe Square.
Sadly, the Radcliffe Camera is not open to the public.

(The entrance to the Old Schools Quadrangle is on the north side of the square, directly opposite St Mary's Church. You can stroll through the two quadrangles when the library is open (most weekdays and Saturday morning). At other times, you will have to continue along Catte Street and rejoin the tour at the junction of Catte Street and New College Lane. )

F-The Old Schools Quadrangle -The Bodleian Library was founded by Thomas Bodley in 1598. Today the collection comprises 6.5 million documents occupying 169Km (105 miles) of shelving space in 10 buildings located throughout Oxford. Much of the collection is kept in a network of tunnels running under Broad Street. The Old Schools Quadrangle is the oldest part of the library and the names of the original faculties are written above the doors in gold lettering (and, of course, in Latin). The Tower of Five Orders is so named because it is ornamented with columns of each of the five orders of classical architecture - Doric, Tuscan, Ionic, Corinthian and Composite.  The Divinity School and Duke Humphry Reading Room are open to the public. The entrance is found next to the statue of the Earl of Pembroke in the second quad. The Duke Humphry Reading Room housed the University's first great collection, founded in 1310 but sadly dispersed by 1556.

(Emerging from the Old Schools Quadrangle, you will find yourself in a graveled courtyard. In front of you is the original home of the Oxford University Press, the Clarendon Building, topped by figures of  the nine muses. To your left is the Sheldonian Theatre, the centre for University ceremonials and another creation of Sir Christopher Wren. This is well worth a visit, not just to see the Vice Chancellor's elaborately carved throne and painted ceiling, but also to take in the spectacular aerial views of Oxford's spires and domes from the rooftop cupola.)

Sheldonian Theatre-£2.00 (10-4:30) The Sheldonian Theatre was erected in 1664-8 to a design by Sir Christopher Wren (1632-1723) from funds donated by Gilbert Sheldon (1598-1677), who during his long career held office as Warden of All Souls Bishop of London and Archbishop of Canterbury and was elected as Chancellor of the University of Oxford. In 1994 the Theatre was described by the European Commission as "one of the architectural jewels of Oxford". Its purpose was to provide an appropriate secular venue for the principal meetings and public ceremonies of the University, and this remains its purpose today.
 The Broad Street entrance to the Sheldonian Theatre is notable because of the carved heads, or terms, that tower above the railings. Often referred to as the twelve Caesars or Apostles, they are actually anonymous but, nonetheless, curiously photogenic! 

(Exit the courtyard to your right in order to get a view of one of Oxford's most famous constructions, the Bridge of Sighs.)

G-Bridge of Sighs- (Oxford, Park and Queens Lane) Anglicised version of the Venice original.   The Bridge of Sighs joins the two sections of Hertford College located on either side of New College Lane. Modeled on the famous Ponte dei Sospiri in Venice, it has become one of Oxford's most photographed buildings. But its construction was vehemently opposed when it was built in 1913, not least by the Fellows of New College who thought it would spoil the views of their college from the Sheldonian Theatre. 

(To return to the starting point at Carfax, walk along Broad Street away from the Sheldonian Theatre to the end, then take a left turn into Cornmarket. On the way, you may notice a modest plaque set into the road opposite Balliol College, where the street narrows. This is the spot where the Protestant Bishops Latimer, Ridley and Cranmer (the Oxford Martyrs) were burned at the stake in 1555 and 1556 by Catholic Queen Mary. )

Options:

Alice's Shop- (On St Aldates just south of Christ Church, across the street)  Drawn by Sir John Tenniel as "the old sheep shop" in 'Alice Through the Looking Glass'

(Go back north on St Aldates.  It will become Cornmarket.  It is on the left.)

(Continue north on Cornmarket.  Turn right/est on Broad.)

Blackwell's Bookshop-48-51 Broad St.  Norrington room in Guiness Book of World Records for largest room with 10,000 sq ft. 

(Go back south on Cornmarket and  turn left/east on High St.  It will become The Plain.  At the roundabout take the turn left onto St. Clement's St/A420.  It will become Headington Rd.  Turn right on Windmill Rd.  The hotel is about 200 yds. down on the left. )

Lodge:

All Seasons House  £84 -
63 Windmill Road

Headington

Oxford

OX3 7BP

Telephone: 01865 742215

Fax: 01865 429667

E-mail: info@allseasonshouse.com
Non-smoking, tea and coffeemaker, radio, TV, free internet, hair dryer, iron and ironing board upon request, full breakfast-cereals, fruit, yoghurt, orange juice and grapefruit as available. You can choose from our full English breakfast of sausage, bacon, egg, beans, hash browns and tomatoes or Continental breakfast which, while lighter, is just as satisfying with a selection of  cheese, ham and boiled egg as available. Vegetarians can have a cooked meal of Egg, vegetarian sausages, hash browns, beans, mushrooms and tomatoes or cereal, toast, yoghurt and fruit as a light option. Check-out 10:30 a.m., late arrival 10 p.m.
Called on 02/17 with the credit card number to reserve.

(131)

Day 12

Sunday

July 29th

9:00 a.m.

Depart:

Oxford

(Go back up Windmill north.  Turn right/east on London Rd/A420.  At the roundabout take the 4th exit left/south on A4142/Eastern Bypass Rd.  It will eventually become Southern Bypass Rd/A4074.  At a large roundabout exit left on A34 going south.  Pass under the M4.  Exit left onto the A4/Western Avenue.  Turn left/west.   It will become Gravel Hill, Bath Rd, Charnham St, then Bath Rd again.  At Marlborough it will be London Rd and turn right, then left on New Rd as it then turns into Oxford St and High St.  It will turn right on Bridewell St and become Bath Rd again.  At a turnabout take the 3rd left onto A4361/Beckhampton Rd going northeast.  Go 1 mile.)

10:00 a.m.

Arrive:

Avebury

53

See:

Avebury and Alexander Keiller Museum & Shops  BHP £4.20 (10-6)
Parking, 500yds, £2- Stone circle which is 16 times bigger than Stonehenge.  Circle Restaurant (10-5:30)

12:00 p.m.

Depart:

Avebury

(Go back down on A361 going southwest.  It will be called London Rd and Estcourt St.  At the Devizes turnaround gl left on A342, then south on A360/Southbroom Rd.  It will go into Potterne Rd and become Devizes Rd, The Butts, Eastwell Rd, High St, Church St, High St, Maddington St, Salisbury Rd and  Amesbury Rd.  Past Shrewton it will become A360/A344.  Go to almost the junction with A303.  Parking should be on the left.)

12:30 p.m.

Arrive:

Stonehenge

25

See:

Stonehenge (9-7) BHP £6.30 

Toilets, Shop, Refreshments: Light refreshments are available from the Stonehenge Kitchen.

1:30 p.m.

Depart:

Stonehenge

(Continue west on A303, then northwest/right at Mere on B3092.)

2:00 p.m.

Arrive:

Stourhead

26

See:

Stourhead BHP or £10.40 (Garden 9-7, House 11:30-4:30, Restaurant 10-5:30, Shops 10-6) Scene from Pride and Prejudice.  King Alfred's Tower: £2.30 3rd week of July-Summer Music Festival

5:00 p.m.

Depart:

Stourhead

(Continue north on B3092.  At the roundabout go left/east on A361.  At another roundabout take the 2nd left on A36.  It will be called Warminster Rd.  Turn right/east on B3108/Bradford-on-Avon/Winsley Rd opposite a pub called "The Viaduct."  After 1 miles the road goes under the railway bridge and up the hill to Winsley Village.  Turn right on Turleigh and Winsley into the village.   Turn  left/east on Bradford Rd.  As you leave the village, the hotel is on the right.)   

Arrive:

Winsley

32

Lodge:

Serendipity
19 Bradford Road, Winsley, Bath, Somerset, BA15 2HW
Telephone: 01225 722380
Fax: 01225 723415
£80-4 adults  All rooms are en-suite with colour television coffee and tea making facilities, full English breakfast
Call on 3/10/07 to reserve with a man

 

(136)

Day 13

Monday

July 30th

9:00 a.m.

Depart:

Winsley

(Go back the way you came and turn right/north on Danes Rise.  Go left/west on B3108.  Turn right/north on A36/Warminster Rd.  In Bath at the junction take Sydney Rd.  Go left on Great Pulteney Rd.  It will become Argyle St. Turn left/south on Grand Parad after crossing the river.  It will become Pierrepont, then Manvers.  Look for a parking spot.)

Arrive:

Bath

7

Barclays Bank
1 Manvers Place

(Go north on Manvers/Pierrepoint then left/east on York.)

Do:

Bath Walking Tour

1A-Roman Baths and Pump Room  BHP or £11.25 (9-9)
Restaurant  VISA
1)  Sacred Spring- The Sacred Spring lies at the very heart of the ancient monument. Water rises here at the rate of over a million litres a day and at a temperature of 46⁰C. The Spring rises within the courtyard of the Temple of Sulis Minerva and water from it feeds the Roman baths. There is some slight evidence, an earthen bank projecting into the Spring, that suggests it was already a focal point for worship before the Roman Temple and baths were built.  Roman engineers surrounded the Spring with an irregular stone chamber lined with lead. To provide a stable foundation for this they drove oak piles into the mud. At first this reservoir formed an open pool in a corner of the Temple courtyard but in the second century AD it was enclosed within a barrel vaulted building and columns and statue bases were placed in the Spring itself. Enclosing the Spring in a dimly lit building in this way and erecting statues and columns within it must have enhanced the aura of mystery that surrounded it. Offerings were thrown into the Spring throughout the Roman period.  Eventually the vaulted building collapsed into the Spring itself.  We do not know when this was, but it is likely to have been in the sixth or seventh century. The oak piles sunk into the mud two thousand years ago continue to provide a stable foundation for the Roman reservoir walls today. 
2)  Royal Temple-The Temple at Bath was built in a classical style and is unusual in Britain as only one other truly classical temple – the temple of Claudius at Colchester – is known. It dates to the later first century AD. The Bath Temple stood on a podium more than two meters above the surrounding courtyard. It was approached by a flight of steps. As one approached it there were four large, fluted Corinthian columns supporting a frieze and decorated pediment above. Behind the columns was a large door to the cella where the cult statue of the goddess was kept. This room would have been dimly lit without windows, with the only light coming through the doorway and from the Temple fire burning before the cult statue.  In the later second century the Temple was modified by the addition of small side chapels and the construction of an ambulatory around it. This change moved away from the simple classical style as first built and turned the Temple into something more akin to other Romano – Celtic temples from Roman Britain. These changes coincided with the enclosure of the sacred Spring within a new building and may reflect a change in ritual practice at the site.  The Temple remained a focal point for worship until late in the fourth century AD. As Christianity gathered strength the old pagan religion was marginalised and in 391 AD the Emperor Theodosius ordered the closure of pagan temples throughout the Empire. The Temple fell into a state of disrepair and eventually collapsed.  Some of the carved stones from the pediment were re-used as paving slabs in the courtyard and their chance survival has helped us build a picture of one of Roman Britain’s most remarkable religious buildings.

3)  Roman Bath House-BLADUD became the ninth King of the Britons in 863 B.C. succeeding his father Ludhudibras. Educated at Athens he returned on his fathers death accompanied by four philosophers. He founded a university at Stamford in Lincolnshire and by practicing necromancy created the hot springs at Bath. Here he founded a temple dedicated to Minerva and placed the rein inextinguishable fires.  He made feathered wings and learnt to fly but fell on the Temple of Apollo at New Troy and broke his neck, after reigning 20 years. He was succeeded by his son King Lear.
BLADUD spent eleven years at Athens and returned home a leper. Because of his illness he was confined but escaped in disguise from his father’s court and came to a place called Swainswick where he was employed as a swineherd.  In cold weather he saw his pigs wallowing in a mire. He found that the mud was warm and the pigs enjoyed the heat.  Noticing that the pigs which bathed in the mire were free of scurf and scabs, and reasoning that he might benefit in the same way, he too bathed in the waters and was duly cured of leprosy.  He revealed his identity to his master and returned to has father’s court where he was recognized and restored to his inheritance. He succeeded to the throne on his father’s death, whereupon he founded the City of Bath around the hot springs and built the baths so that others might benefit as he had done.  - Later, he founded at the hot springs a town which has since become the city of Bath.  The first shrine at the site of the springs was built by Celts, and dedicated to the goddess Sulis, whom the Romans identified with Minerva; however, the name Sulis continued to be used after the Roman invasion, leading to the town's Roman name of Aquae Sulis (literally, "the waters of Sulis").  During the Roman occupation of Britain increasingly grand temples and bathing complexes were built, but after the Roman withdrawal these fell into disrepair and were eventually lost due to silting up. Then in 1687, the previously barren Queen Mary bathed here, became pregnant, and bore a male heir to the throne.  A few years later Queen Anne found the water eased her painful gout.  Word of its wonder waters spread and Bath earned its way back on the aristocratic map.  They were rediscovered in 1755 AD and, as well as being a major archaeological find, they have from that time to the present been one of the city's main attractions, though the water is now considered unsafe for bathing, due to its having passed through the still-functioning lead pipes constructed by the Romans.  For centuries Bath was forgotten as a spa. 

Today a fine museum surrounds the ancient bath.  It’s a one-way system leading you past Roman artifacts, mosaics, temple pediments and the mouth of the spring, piled high with Roman pennies.  Look into the eyes of Minerva, goddess of the hot springs.  Self-guided tour includes audioguide. 

1B-Pump Room- (9-5)
In the 1790s, the Great Pump Room was built to replace the now inadequate 1706 Room. Designed by Thomas Baldwin, this building became a popular meeting place in the 18th century and under the leadership of the Master of Ceremonies Beau Nash, Bath became a leading resort for fashionable society.
Inside the present Pump Room there is now a restaurant where you can take morning coffee, lunches and afternoon teas to the accompaniment of piano music or the Pump Room Trio.
The Pump Room contains a number of curiosities, including the Tompion clock, given to the city in 1709 by Thomas Tompion, England’s best known clockmaker.
(RS) This is your chance to eat a famous (but forgettable) “Bath bun” and split (and spit) a 75p drink of the awful curative water.  The water is served from the King’s Spring by appropriately attired Martin, who’s ready to minuet (but refuses to gavotte).  He explains that the water is 10,000 years old, pumped from nearly 100 yards deep and marinated in wonderful minerals.  Public WC’s are in the entry hallway that connects the Pump Room with the baths.

See:

2-Bath Abbey  £2.50 donation (9-6 Mon-Sat, 1-2:30 & 4:30-5:30 Sun)  Choral Evensong 3:30-Sun
12 Kingston Buildings

An Anglo-Saxon Abbey Church dating from 757, pulled down by the Norman conquerors of England soon after 1066.  A massive Norman cathedral begun about 1090. It was larger than the monastery could afford to maintain and by the end of the 15th century was in ruins.  John of Tours planned a new cathedral on a grand scale, dedicated to SS Peter and Paul. When finished it was about 330 feet (100 metres) long. Only the ambulatory was complete when he died in 1122. The half-finished cathedral was devastated by fire in 1137, but work continued and it was completed by about 1156.  When Oliver King, Bishop of Bath and Wells, visited Bath in 1499 he was shocked to find the church in ruins. He took a year to consider what to do about it. In October
 1500 he wrote to the Prior of Bath to explain that a large amount of the priory income would be dedicated to rebuilding the cathedral. Work probably began the following spring. Bishop
King planned a smaller church, covering only the area of the Norman nave. He did not live to see the result. The new cathedral was completed just a few years before the Dissolution of the Monasteries by Henry VIII in 1539.  In January 1539 Prior Holloway surrendered Bath Priory to the Crown. The church was stripped of lead, iron and glass and left to rot. It was rescued a generation later by the citizens of Bath. From 1574 to 1611 Queen Elizabeth I promoted the restoration of the church to serve as the grand parish church of Bath. James Montagu was Bishop of Bath Abbey from 1608 until 1616 and is buried in an alabaster tomb on the North aisle. During this time Bishop James Montagu paid £1000 for a new nave roof of timber and lath construction.  During the 1860s major restoration work was carried out by Sir George Gilbert Scott, funded by Rector Charles Kemble.
The glass, red-iron gas powered lamps, and heating grates on the floor are 19^th century.  The window behind the altar shows 52 scenes from the life of Christ.  A window to the left of the altar shows Edgar’s coronation.  On the facade look for the angels going down the ladder and the statue of Peter (to the left of the door) lost his head to a mean iconoclast; it was re-carved out of his once large beard.
Vaults Heritage Museum- explains to visitors how the Abbey site has been used by Christians for 1600 years, displays evidence of the different buildings which have been here and what went on in them and shows the impact the Abbey has had on the wider community in Bath.
Abbey Shop- The Abbey Shop stocks a large range of bibles, Christian books, guide books, postcards, greetings cards, CDs, icons, jewelry and gifts.

 

(Leaving the jugglers, saxophonists, and performance artists in Abbey Church Yard, go between the pillars across Stall Street and along Bath Street.)  

3-the Cross Bath-Here bubbles up one of Bath’s smaller hot springs. By about 1700 the Cross Bath was ’the bathing place of pleasure’. More private than the King’s Bath, it was favoured by the beau monde. Musicians serenaded noted beauties from one of its galleries, while spectators admired them from the other. That was in an earlier building. This Georgian gem went up towards the end of the century. Its luscious curves billow out into the half-moon end of Bath Street.  Very elegantly urned and swagged, where James II's wife erected a cross in 1688 in gratitude for having at last become pregnant after bathing in this spring.

(Turn right into Saw Close to Barton Street.)

4-New Theatre Royal-
1768 By a special act of parliament a royal patent was granted. Bath has a Theatre Royal for the first time, also the first outside London.
1804 Plans for a new and improved theatre in Beaufort Square are made.
1805 Orchard Street theatre closed, to be converted into a Catholic church in 1809.  Just one year from its conception, the new building was completed. It was designed by George Dance, professor of architecture at the Royal Academy. The theatre opened on 12th October 1805 with a performance of Richard III.
1820 - 1850 Attendance and ticket sales at the theatre declined, closure was threatened on several occasions.
1862 On the 18th April the Theatre was destroyed by fire. Plans were immediately made to build a new theatre on the old site. 1863 The new theatre opened in March. It was designed by C.J. Phipps. 'A Midsummer Nights Dream' was performed on the opening
night. Ellen Terry played Titania.
1902 Extensive refurbishments, including a fire-proof curtain, additional entrances and a staircase. This was mainly due to the Royal Patent having expired, and it was renewed with the approval of the Lord Chamberlain.
1905 The theatre's centenary year. Henry Irving made his farewell performance.
1914 Plans were made for extensive structural repairs. These were postponed due to the outbreak of the First World War.
1940 - 1945 The Theatre Royal thrived during the Second World War, surviving the extensive bombing of Bath during the blitz.
1979 The theatre was purchased BY JEREMY FRY to be run as a non-profitmaking concern - a registered charity.
1980 An appeal was launched to raise funds for much needed renovations. Peter Hall, director of the National Theatre, announced plans to make Bath the National base for middle-scale productions, once the work was completed.
1982 The Theatre Royal, as we now know it,
re-opened on November 30th, with a gala performance of 'A Midsummer Night's Dream'.

(Continue on Barton St. to Gay St.)

Optional:

(Continue on Barton Street. into Queen Square, around which John Wood the Elder showed off the Bath stone to best advantage. From the top left corner of Queen Square, ascend to the lion-guarded entrance into Royal Victoria Park and take the raised gravel walk on the right, which curves around to meet the classic sweep of Royal Crescent.)

5- No 1 Royal Crescent - £5.00  (10:30-5 Tues-Sun)
The Royal Crescent was built to the designs of John Wood the Younger between 1767 and 1774. It is justly considered one of the finest achievements of urban 18th century architecture and represents the highest point of palladian architecture in Bath. The foundation stone of Number 1 Royal Crescent was laid in 1767 and the house first leased to Thomas Brock in 1769. Among subsequent distinguished occupants, records show that the Duke of York, second son of George III, ‘engaged the first house in the Royal Crescent’ in 1776.  By 1968 ‘Number 1’ was a lodging house and had fallen into disrepair. Major Bernard Cayzer, a member of the shipping family acquired the house and gave it to The Bath Preservation Trust, who in turn provided funds for its restoration. Only materials available in the 18th century were used.  Visitors can now see a grand town house redecorated and furnished to show how it might have appeared in the late 18th century. Most of the house is taken up by the Museum.
Tour (RS):  As you cruise the Crescent, pretend you’re rich.  Pretend you’re poor.  Notice the “ha ha fence,” a drop-off in the front yard that acted as a barrier invisible from the windows for keeping out sheep and peasants.  Royal Crescent Hotel sits unmarked in the center of the crescent.  You’re welcome to politely drop in to explore its fine ground floor public spaces. 

(Continue along Brock Street.) 

6-The Circus-History-
The Circus, originally called King's Circus, was designed by the architect John Wood the Elder, although he never lived to see his plans put into effect as he died less than three months after the first stone was laid. It was left to his son, John Wood the Younger to complete the scheme to his father's design. The initial leases for the South West segment were granted in 1755-67, those for the South East segment in 1762-6, and those for the North segment in 1764-6. 
Wood's inspiration was the Roman Colosseum, but whereas the Colosseum was designed to be seen from the outside, the Circus faces inwardly. Three classical Orders, (Greek Doric, Roman/Composite and Corinthian) are used, one above the other, in the elegant curved facades. The frieze of the Doric entablature is decorated with alternating triglyphs and 525
pictorial emblems, including serpents, nautical symbols, devices representing the arts and sciences, and masonic symbols. The parapet is adorned with stone acorn finials.  The central area was originally paved with stone setts, covering a reservoir in the centre which supplied water to the houses.

In 1800 the Circus residents enclosed the central part of the open space as a garden. Now, the central area is grassed over and is home to a group of venerable plane trees. 
Divided into three segments of equal length, the Circus is a circular space surrounded by large townhouses. Each of the curved segments faces one of the three entrances, thereby ensuring that whichever way a visitor enters there is a beautiful facade straight ahead. 
(RS) Walk along The Circus.  The frieze above the first row of columns has hundreds of different panels, each representing the arts, sciences and crafts.  The first floor was high off the ground, to accommodate aristocrats on sedan charis and women with Cher-like hairdos.  The tiny round windows on the top floors were the servant’s quarters.  While the building fronts are uniform, the backs are higgledy-piggledy, infamous for their “hanging loos.”   Stand in the middle of the Crescent among the grand plane trees, on the capped old well.  Imagine the days when there was no indoor plumbing, and the servant girls gathered here to fetch water-this was gossip central.  Standing on the well, your clap echoes three times around the circle.  (try it)

(Just beyond, turning right off Bennett Street.) 

7-Assembly Rooms/Museum of Costume-BHP £6.75 (11-6)
The elegant Assembly Rooms were designed by John Wood the Younger from 1769 to act as a venue for social events and a public meeting place. A long ballroom lit by 18th-century chandeliers, an octagonal card room with a musicians' gallery, and a pillared and curtained tearoom. Charles Dickens also visited Bath on several occasions.  He gave public readings in the Assembly Rooms and mentions them in the Pickwick Papers (published 1837).  Destroyed in WWII bombing and rebuilt.  In the basement is Bath's Museum of Costume  (which features 400 years of costume), featuring modes of dress from Elizabethan blackwork embroidery to ultramodern fashion.
Admission includes the Acoustiguide.  Assembly Rooms Café is open from 11.00 until 16.00.  Gift Shop and Fashion Bookstore

8-Pulteney Bridge-Bartlett Street and Broad Street bring you to Robert Adam's beautiful Pulteney Bridge, just above a broad weir across the River Avon completed in 1773. It was designed by Robert Adam and is one of only four bridges in the world with shops across the full span on both sides.  Named after Frances Pulteney, heiress in 1767 of the Bathwick estate across the river from Bath.  Bathwick was a simple village in a rural setting, but Frances's husband William Johnstone Pulteney could see its potential. He made plans to create a new town, which would become a suburb to the historic city of Bath. First he needed a better river crossing than the existing ferry. Hence the bridge.  Pulteney approached the brothers Robert and William Adam with his new town in mind, but Robert Adam then became involved in the design of the bridge. In his hands the simple construction envisaged by Pulteney became an elegant structure lined with shops. Adam had visited both Florence and Venice, where he would have seen the Ponte Vecchio and the Ponte di Rialto. But Adam's design more closely followed Andrea Palladio's rejected design for the Rialto.
Pulteney Bridge stood for less than 20 years in the form that Adam created. In 1792 alterations to enlarge the shops marred the elegance of the façades. Floods in 1799 and 1800 wrecked the north side of the bridge, which had been constructed with inadequate support. It was rebuilt by John Pinch senior, surveyor to the Pulteney estate, in a less ambitious version of Adam's design. 19th-century shopkeepers altered windows, or cantilevered out over the river as the fancy took them. The western end pavilion on the south side was demolished in 1903 for road widening and its replacement was not an exact match.
The tide turned in the twentieth century, with restorations in 1951 and 1975. Pulteney Bridge could not be returned to its original form, but it was given back its dignity. However, in local
Bath legend the story still remains, that the bridge was designed with an old woman in mind - one that had washed her face, but forgotten to wipe her 'arse' (vernacular expression for posterior). This is apparently due to the bridge's pristine frontage, yet rather shabby behind. The verifiability of this legend is uncertain. It is now one of the best-known buildings in a city famed for its Georgian architecture.
(RS) Pay about a pound to enter the Parade Gardens below the bridge.  (10-8)  This includes deck chairs.  Take a siesta to relax peacefully at the riverside for a wonderful break. 

(Continue west on Argyle.  Turn left/south on High St.) 

9-Guildhall Market-Located across from the Pulteney Bridge the little shopping mall is a frumpy time warp in this affluent town, but it’s fun for browsing and picnic shopping. 
The market dates back to the grant of its Royal Charter in 1189, however the Guildhall was not built until 1776. By 1818 there were an astonishing 438 stalls displaying goods around the Guildhall. Due to its popularity, a purpose built market was then erected in 1861, and for the last hundred years, around 30 stalls have been housed here.
At the Market Café you can slurp a curry or sip a tea while surrounded by stacks of used books, bananas on the push list, and honest-to-goodness old-time locals.  £4 a meal (Mon-Sat 8-5, closed Sun.)
The Cornish Bakehouse, near the Guildhall Market, has good take-away pasties.  Off High St at 11a The Corridor. (til 5:30) 

10-Sally Lunn's Refreshment House and Museum (opt)

4 North Parade Passage, Bath
Phone-01225 461 634
Oldest house in Bath (c.1483). Centrally located and home of the world famous Sally Lunn Bun (exceptionally light semi sweet bread) and now a living museum where visitors can experience a taste of Bath just a few minutes from the Abbey.  See excavations that show how this site has been used to refresh townspeople and travellers since Roman times. Also preserved is the original kitchen Sally Lunn used over 300 years ago.  Today the 3 themed refreshment rooms serve an intriguing daytime menu based on the Sally Lunn bun for morning coffee, lunch and afternoon tea. Each evening our acclaimed historic trencher dinner is served from 5 pm.  Visit the fascinating museum in the cellars, where you can see the Roman and Medieval foundations of the house and the finds from the recent excavations. See the original kitchen with its faggot oven. Georgian range and old baking utensils.  Adjacent is the remarkable stalactite and stalagmite cellar.  The Museum open daily from 10.00am   Gift Shop VISA

Opt.

(Go south o